WASHINGTON — Labor and human rights groups working with organizations in Bangladesh and their own staffs on the ground there said they have found more labels and turned up the names of seven factories that subcontracted work to the Smart Export Garment Ltd. factory, where seven garment workers died in a fire over the weekend.
The fire, which also injured at least 15 workers, has sparked protests in Bangladesh and calls for action and change by U.S. and international labor rights groups. It follows on the heels of the Tazreen factory fire in late November that claimed the lives of more than 111 garment workers in Ashulia, Bangladesh.
The staff of the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights in Dhaka interviewed a supervisor at Smart Export, who identified seven factories that allegedly subcontracted work to Smart Export. All seven factories are reportedly members of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.
The factories identified by the supervisor include Mrinmoy Fashion Ltd., Concord Fashion Export, Shintex BD Ltd., Syntex Knitwear Ltd., Energy Pac Fashion Ltd., MHC Apparels Ltd. and Mac-Tex Industries.
“There are apparently a lot of these sweatshops and subcontracting factories operating in Bangladesh and receiving work from more established factories, which was the case here,” said Barbara Briggs, assistant director at the Pittsburgh-based Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights. “The question now is are the labels whose production were there going to take any responsibility?”
“Retailers know very well that the demands they place on suppliers cannot be met without subcontracting, but they turn a blind eye,” said Scott Nova, executive director of the Worker Rights Consortium. “This allows them to take advantage of the cheap costs these shady subcontract factories offer, at the expense of worker rights and worker safety, while maintaining deniability. When a disaster occurs, they claim they are shocked to discover that unauthorized subcontracting was going on.”
The Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity and Worker Rights Consortium said they have discovered more labels and/or apparel at Smart, including the label Okay Men, produced by Kik, a German apparel and nonfood discounter; Mim, a French retailer and women’s apparel and accessories brand, which is a subsidiary of New Look, and Max, a retail chain in the Middle East owned by Landmark Group.
A spokeswoman for Kik denied the company used Smart Export in an email early Wednesday morning.
“The accusations against us which are related to the recent and tragic events in a suburb of Dhaka are incorrect,” she said. “We have never had any business relationship with Smart Export Garment Ltd. Furthermore there is noevidence that orders were sub-contracted to Smart Export Garments Ltd. We explicitly reject contrary statements.”
However labor groups provided WWD with documents and digital images of labels said to be found in the rubble of Smart Export, including an “Okay Men” label, which is produced by Kik.
The Kik spokeswoman also said the company has held “exploratory discussions” with a coalition of labor and human rights groups pressing retailers and brands to sign a binding “Bangladesh Fire and Building Safety Agreement,” she said. The company is also considering cooperating with the International Labor Organization, BGMEA and the Buyer’s Forum, a group of large international trading companies, to address the fire safety issues in Bangladesh’s garment industry.
She added that Kik also plans reach an “appropriate agreement” and participate in the relief fund for victims of the separate Tazreen fashion fire in November.
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.
@beyonce chose a custom gown by @falgunishanepeacockindia for mother @mstinalawson 's second annual Wearable Art Gala last night. The gown, which took 10 days to make, was inspired by Nubian warrior queen Amanishakheto. Reporting by @hernameislex . #wwdeye 👑 🐝#beyonce
After dressing @justintimberlake for his Super Bowl halftime performance last month, @stellamccartney has designed the star’s "Man of the Woods" tour wardrobe. Timberlake will be wearing a mix of pieces from McCartney’s fall men's collection as well as custom designs and items from his own closet. #wwdfashion