A Trump effect, for better or worse, seems to be percolating through the New York trade show circuit.From order amounts to general atmosphere, President Donald Trump and First Lady Melania Trump were on the minds of designers showing at the Designer as well as the Atelier Designers trade shows held in Manhattan last week, but ideas on what exactly a burgeoning Trump effect means for the industry varied from one showgoer to the next.Bradley Scott, who designs a conservative line of eveningwear (think lots of silk wool, ruffles and embroidery in mostly cream and black) and voted for Trump, is hoping for the opportunity to dress the First Lady and said her “people” have been in touch recently.“I’d be honored to dress Melania,” Scott said at the Designer show. “I’d dress any first lady, it would be amazing.”He also said the trade show had been good for him this season, estimating 40 percent growth in orders. Scott singled out a black silk wool jacket with a trenchcoat-style lapel and elbow length sleeves of two-dimensional black embroidery as a bestseller from his fall line.Scott’s focus however is dresses, which he said are popular with a number of Fox News broadcasters, as well as Katrina Pierson, a former Trump campaign spokeswoman.“These women, they give life to the clothing,” Scott said.Carlo Goetschel, president of Algo SA, a Zurich-based line of curated, high-end sportswear ranging from slacks and silk blouses to a laser-cut leather blazer and a sable fur coats, also said sales for fall have been doing well and that Algo picked up at least six new accounts.Goetschel, who was showing at Designer, admitted though that there has been less interest in strictly seasonal dressing.“There hasn’t been as much interest in full coats, a little more interest in transitional dressing than seasonal, maybe more than we would like,” he said.Goetschel, hailing from long-neutral Switzerland, seemed nonplussed by a Trump administration, but said with a good-humored lilt that a personal client in Corpus Christi, Texas, had recently sent a letter to Melania Trump, urging her to wear Algo.“I haven’t heard back yet, but I’ll let you know,” Goetschel added.Other designers were more concerned about what the Trumps mean for business.Jane Mohr of Dress to Kill, a line of casual, roomy and layerable cotton and linen separates geared toward an older clientele, said this year’s Atelier show felt slower than other years and orders have been smaller — changes she said emanate from uncertainty around a Trump economy.“People are hesitant, more hesitant, because they don't know what things are going to look like in six months because of everything, because of Trump,” Mohr said at Atelier Designers.Other elements that are affecting Mohr’s line are farther out of Trump’s purview, however.“We have about 90 accounts, and mostly we sell to the same ones every season,” Mohr said. “But those stores, they’re getting older, the owners are older, the clientele is getting older, so I worry. No one is coming up behind them to fill the gaps. In five years or so, I see myself as having less of a wholesale presence.”Mohr, too, said immediates are becoming more popular, and a look around her space at the show underscored that notion. The room opens onto racks of spring merchandise, while fall is around the corner and nearly out of sight.Mark Keller, the U.S. representative for Matthildur, a line of cotton and knit separates in a muted palette of slate, black and moss green, for one wouldn’t mind the industry moving toward more of a buy-now-wear-now model, but doesn’t believe it’s going to totally sweep the industry.“We have the ability to do that to a degree, to be faster, but I'm not sure the market is ready for that,” Keller said at Atelier Designers.As for his impression of the economic mood around the Atelier show, Keller said it was “lukewarm” relative to other seasons, even though the brand picked up some new accounts and is getting widely positive feedbackLike Mohr, Keller attributed the dampened mood to Trump (and Keller made clear he is not a fan).“People are very concerned about buying more product with this administration going on,” Keller said. “We’re all over; Oklahoma, Texas, Montana and, yes, our best sales are on the coasts, but the American retailer is being very cautious, more cautious now than in the past.”
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.