LONDON — Bally has named Pablo Coppola design director, overseeing all product categories, WWD has learned. His first women’s collection will be unveiled on Sunday in Milan.
Coppola joined Bally six months ago as accessories design director. He will report to Frederic de Narp, Bally’s chief executive officer, and head up a 15-strong design team that includes Paris-based designer Alexandre Mattiussi, who is working with Bally for two seasons.
In his new role, the Buenos Aires-born Coppola, a graduate of Paris’ Institut Francais De La Mode, oversees the footwear, bag, small leather goods, ready-to-wear, and eyewear categories.
Coppola has designed accessories for brands including Christian Dior, Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, Burberry and Celine, and said the women’s collection would be in keeping with the men’s one he showed in Milan last month. “It’s an essential wardrobe, basics with a chic touch that have been built on the notion of soft luxury — and real people. It’s timeless rather than trendy,” Coppola told WWD.
Coppola has worked with cashmere, wools with a dry touch, Japanese denim, and leather. The collection includes a pea coat, a three-quarter length military coat, cashmere knitwear, and separates made from leather bonded with cashmere.
There are also slouchy boots made with a single piece of leather in a process that takes about three times that of a normal pair of boots, the designer said. Heels are chunkier than in the past, and pumps come in materials including calf skin, hair calf, and high-shine.
“We’ve done beautifully clean and graphic leather bags — what Bally should be doing. Details are functional, and there are no gimmicks or added decorations. Logos are discreet. These are not trendy bags,” he said.
During the same interview, de Narp said Coppola: “Has the capacity to inspire and bring creativity both to men’s and women’s collections — and that is a very rare quality. Pablo and I are also very aligned in feeling the same intuition and excitement for the brand’s untapped potential. He gets the brand’s DNA and has the background of pure glamour that I need. And he’s not a prima donna. He’ll help us take Bally to the next level,” said de Narp.