MILAN — The latest outerwear brand to believe that quilted nylon and silk flower appliqués belong together is the Tod's Group-owned Fay, which has tapped Giles Deacon as its chief designer.
Fay's chairman, Andrea Della Valle, and Deacon today will unveil a capsule collection of some 25 sartorial pieces, alongside a more basic lineup. The Fay presentation will take place at the Pavilion of Contemporary Art where the Tod's brand normally shows its new collections but this season will do so in its newly refurbished store.
"We courted Deacon for a while because we believed he could give Fay a more international appeal and a sexier and more feminine look," said Della Valle. "Fay is a brand that is attentive to fashion but that isn't overshadowed by trends."
Deacon was impressed by the group's production facilities in the Marche region. "I want Fay to be sporty couture with a mix of technical fabrics and feminine details so that you can wear the same jacket over jeans on a shopping spree or for a night outing," the designer said.
Nylon, velvet, cashmere and asphalt gray denim, at times quilted, are Deacon's top fabric choices, shaped as slim peacoats, puffy jackets and trenchcoats. The details that make the difference are ruffled hems, chain-link motifs and handmade silk duchesse flowers strewn around the neck. Silk and cotton polo shirts, blouses, skirts and pants complete the offerings.
Colors include black, army green and midnight blue, brightened up with shots of fuchsia. Retail prices for the outerwear range from $1,600 to $2,330, skirts and pants retail from $365 to $511 and tops go from $175 to 292.
Known for its four-hook closure firefighter jackets, Fay is an American brand the Della Valle brothers acquired in the early Eighties. Outside Italy, it has found success in the U.S., where it has a corner in Barneys New York, and also in Germany, Russia, France and Great Britain.
Della Valle plans to open four to five flagships in European capitals, including Rome this year and London and Paris over the next three years, and to secure some 150 wholesale doors worldwide the first year. Fay currently has stores in Milan and Naples.
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew