MILAN — Referring to the short-lived marriage between Lars Nilsson and the house of Ferré, IT Holding's Tonino Perna believes that in the case of divorce, it's always better when children aren't involved.
The children in this case would have been the fall designs that would have marked Nilsson's debut at Ferré next Monday. Needless to say, the buzz was mounting but, as reported, Ferré parent IT Holding SpA split with Nilsson on Friday with no reason given.
"It was an unpleasant decision to take, also because I respect Nilsson, he is a nice and professional person. It's no one's fault, but the relationship didn't work out and we thought it would be better to interrupt it before the show," Perna, IT Holding's chairman, told WWD on Monday.
He stressed the premature end to Nilsson's tenure was part of the designer's contract and didn't involve any extra costs for the group.
When problems started developing with Nilsson, Perna asked Ferré's in-house design team to develop fall looks that were a contemporary rendition of the Ferré style codes.
"What we learned when Ferré passed away was that the designer not only left us with a great brand but he had also trained a very seasoned and capable design team," said Perna.
According to sources, Nilsson not only steered away from Ferré's aesthetic but he didn't bond with the design teams, especially with the men's wear one that was hostile to him. But his supporters pointed out the teams were already in place when he arrived and he needed time to adjust to a staff that had worked with Ferré for years. Yet another source described Nilsson's debut approach as "very Italian: chic and salable."
Many agreed the Swedish designer had a lot on his plate, but his diffidence probably led him to misjudge his workload. According to one source, Nilsson did not take advantage of the teamwork approach that would have taken some weight off his shoulders. "It's always hard to replace a designer who has poured his heart and soul for decades to build a fashion brand," said a source familiar with the house.
Most people confirmed IT Holding went to great lengths to supply Nilsson with the support he needed and to produce the clothes for Monday's show.
Nilsson was not available for comment Monday.
Perna said a creative director will replace Nilsson. "A creative director today must have managerial skills in guiding a team and must also understand the market direction and the consumers' needs, especially when you have different lines and a wide product range. It's not easy to find someone with all these requisites," he said.
Aside from the Ferré main line, the house also produces the Ferré Milano diffusion line and the younger GF Ferré label.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)