MILAN — Referring to the short-lived marriage between Lars Nilsson and the house of Ferré, IT Holding's Tonino Perna believes that in the case of divorce, it's always better when children aren't involved.
The children in this case would have been the fall designs that would have marked Nilsson's debut at Ferré next Monday. Needless to say, the buzz was mounting but, as reported, Ferré parent IT Holding SpA split with Nilsson on Friday with no reason given.
"It was an unpleasant decision to take, also because I respect Nilsson, he is a nice and professional person. It's no one's fault, but the relationship didn't work out and we thought it would be better to interrupt it before the show," Perna, IT Holding's chairman, told WWD on Monday.
He stressed the premature end to Nilsson's tenure was part of the designer's contract and didn't involve any extra costs for the group.
When problems started developing with Nilsson, Perna asked Ferré's in-house design team to develop fall looks that were a contemporary rendition of the Ferré style codes.
"What we learned when Ferré passed away was that the designer not only left us with a great brand but he had also trained a very seasoned and capable design team," said Perna.
According to sources, Nilsson not only steered away from Ferré's aesthetic but he didn't bond with the design teams, especially with the men's wear one that was hostile to him. But his supporters pointed out the teams were already in place when he arrived and he needed time to adjust to a staff that had worked with Ferré for years. Yet another source described Nilsson's debut approach as "very Italian: chic and salable."
Many agreed the Swedish designer had a lot on his plate, but his diffidence probably led him to misjudge his workload. According to one source, Nilsson did not take advantage of the teamwork approach that would have taken some weight off his shoulders. "It's always hard to replace a designer who has poured his heart and soul for decades to build a fashion brand," said a source familiar with the house.
Most people confirmed IT Holding went to great lengths to supply Nilsson with the support he needed and to produce the clothes for Monday's show.
Nilsson was not available for comment Monday.
Perna said a creative director will replace Nilsson. "A creative director today must have managerial skills in guiding a team and must also understand the market direction and the consumers' needs, especially when you have different lines and a wide product range. It's not easy to find someone with all these requisites," he said.
Aside from the Ferré main line, the house also produces the Ferré Milano diffusion line and the younger GF Ferré label.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews