PARIS — French retail-to-luxury group PPR has appointed Pierre Bouissou as president and chief executive officer of fine jewelry house Boucheron, succeeding Jean-Christophe Bédos, who is leaving the group. Bouissou starts June 10.
Most recently, Bouissou was managing director of men’s luxury footwear specialist Berluti, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
“With Pierre, I am confident we have someone with the skills and experience necessary to build on the work done so far and accelerate the positive trends that have already been put in place,” stated Alexis Babeau, deputy ceo of PPR’s luxury division.
Founded in 1858, Boucheron was the first jeweler to set up shop on Place Vendôme, winning a high-end clientele that included movie stars and royalty, from Greta Garbo to Britain’s Queen Elizabeth, with items including its signature serpent designs.
In his seven years at the brand, Bédos is credited with steering Boucheron back to growth by pulling the focus from high fashion toward more timeless designs and showing fewer collections.
Under a three-year strategic plan outlined by then-Gucci Group ceo Robert Polet, who joined shortly after Bédos in 2004, Boucheron stemmed several years of losses and returned to profitability in 2006, one year ahead of schedule.
“I am proud and delighted to have successfully achieved the objectives that had been set for Boucheron,” said Bédos, who declined to reveal where he might be heading.
Commenting on the brand’s performance during the Baselworld watch and jewelry fair in March, the executive said Boucheron had outperformed its peers in 2009 but hinted at a more difficult environment in 2010.
“We have to accept that it’s not plain-sailing. That’s over. We live in a world of risk, in a world of challenges, and so there is no predictability,” he told WWD.
Although PPR does not break out figures for individual brands in its “other brands” division —which also includes Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Sergio Rossi —it said Boucheron recorded double-digit growth in the first quarter, helped by a “buoyant” performance in high-end jewelry.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast