In the fragrance firmament, it’s exceedingly rare that a true star is born. Yet 20 years ago, Thierry Mugler’s Angel was launched into the stratosphere, shaking up preconceived notions of scent.
It’s gourmand. It’s blue. It’s star shaped.
Even still today, one bottle of Angel is sold every 10 seconds worldwide, and its business grows by double digits.
The story dates back to October 1990, when Vera Strubi joined Groupe Clarins (today Mugler’s owner) specifically to create a fragrance with the designer.
“Mugler said to me, ‘I just want a very simple, square bottle with my name on it,’ ” says Strubi, who instead suggested that she take two months to delve into Mugler’s universe to generate ideas. Two months later, she was no closer to resolution. “There were 100,000 stories which I could tell,” explains Strubi, who presented Mugler with myriad options.
While gesticulating to explain to her that it was all marketing hocus-pocus, Mugler looked at his hands. On one finger, a star-shaped ring caught his eye. “He said, ‘I know what you’re looking for. It’s the star. It is my lucky symbol.’ ”
Mugler told Strubi the fragrance must become a classic and be beautiful, blue and smell of childhood memories. And he didn’t want it linked to the ephemeral world of fashion. Strubi found this a challenge. She told perfumers that the scent had to be full of contrasts—fresh, light, warm, sensual, innocent and sexy. Olivier Cresp, then of Quest, concocted a peony-patchouli juice, which Mugler nixed due to the floral aspect. One year and 1,000 submissions later, she knew Cresp’s fragrance was the winner. Strubi says she had slept with it each night and never tired of it. “It was a sign,” she says. Only then did she ask Cresp to add a sweet touch to the juice—such as a hint of chocolate or caramel.
For Strubi, the key lesson learned from the project was simple: “Even if you think everything has been done, you always can invent.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)