BOLOGNA, Italy — This country is a beauty factory, and the brand development engine has been firing on all cylinders this year.
Here are the highlights, culled from interviews in Milan and Bologna:
• Estée Lauder Italy continues to build its connection with consumers by putting cosmeticians in pharmacies, perfumeries and other points of sale and adding some in-store animation for some of its brands. The company is also aggressively promoting MAC Cosmetics in Italy, with plans to open a flagship in Rome in September, according to Orna Nofarber, managing director of Estée Lauder Italy. In addition to its prominent new counter at La Rinascente, MAC is also available at Coin and various freestanding stores in Italy.
• Ferragamo Parfums threw a party on the evening of March 20 in New York’s West Village in Palazzo Ciupi as part of its global, staged rollout for its Signorina women’s fragrance. The Moscow launch was in October and the fete in Dubai was held early this month. The last stop will be Beijing in July or September, said Luciano Bertinelli, chief executive officer of Ferragamo Parfums.
He declined to discuss numbers, but industry sources calculate that Ferragamo’s global retail target could run upward of 35 million euros to 40 million euros, or $46.3 million to $52.8 million, during the fragrance’s first year. Bertinelli did say he expects Signorina to be the house’s strongest fragrance and that, for the first time, Ferragamo is investing in print advertising in the U.S.
• ICR-ITF’s Blumarine will be launching the Innamorata women’s eau de parfum starting in spring in Italy. While ICR-ITF president Roberto Martone would not divulge numbers, industry sources estimate the company registered a sales increase of approximately 16 percent, to 148 million euros, or $195.6 million at average exchange for the period, in 2011. Martone expects ICR-ITF to post gains again in 2012, thanks to brands such as Trussardi, Blumarine and DSquared2.
• Euroitalia continues to roll out Yellow Diamonds around the world. The company is also preparing to add an eau de toilette to its Versace Vanitas brand, with new outer packaging. Its distribution is to be broader and 10 percent to 15 percent less expensive than its edp counterpart. Prices will be approximately $52 for 1 oz., $70 for 1.7 oz. and $91 for 3.4 oz. Euroitalia is also working on a new Moschino fragrance. The product is designed for a younger customer, and executives hope it will be a hit in Asia.
• La Perla is currently launching a companion scent to its classic 1987 eponymous women’s fragrance. The new fragrance is an eau de toilette called La Perla In Rosa. It is designed to attract a younger consumer — aged 18 to 25 — than the original, and will be promoted with advertisements featuring model Alazne Bilbao. The juice includes notes of pear, raspberry, Turkish rose and patchouli.
In April, new packaging is coming out for the original La Perla eau de parfum, which will still use the bottle design by Pierre Dinand. An eau de toilette version could be in the cards for 2013, but is not yet confirmed.
• Davines returned to Cosmoprof with another impressive high-tech, eco-friendly booth designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban and the mission of showing off its new pipeline of projects, beginning with A New Color line. The brand’s product formulas are billed to be ammonia-free. The new Natural Tech hair treatment collection was also on show. Hair treatment generates about one quarter of Davines’ revenues, which in 2011 were 55 million euros, or $72.7 million, at wholesale, up 12 percent on-year, according to Davide Bollati, the company’s president and chairman. “This year it should be more than 60 million euros [or $79.3 million at current exchange],” he said. In another pavilion, the company was showing a new skin care offering under its Comfort Zone banner, which will be launched in October. Bollati described it as “food for the skin.”
• Nail enamel marketer OPI was lining up the European launch of Gel Color, its semipermanent nail product, which was introduced in the U.S. in October 2011. Bill Halfacre, OPI’s executive vice president of sales and marketing, said the launch increased the company’s salon professional products business — which makes up about 30 percent of the firm’s total revenues — by 35 percent.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye