Twice a year, the world’s top hairstylists and makeup artists unleash their creativity during a monthlong fashion show extravaganza. In London, New York, Milan and Paris, trends for the upcoming season are created, the pros and cons of big hair or bold makeup debated. Here, we’ve compiled an overview of the best each city had to offer for spring 2008. As you’ll see, it’s one of the liveliest seasons in years.
LONDON Long known as a hotbed of creativity, London lights up the fashion scene with its mix of avant-garde bright young things and established design beacons.
MAKEUP Although many makeup artists took the season’s popular natural route, when they did detour, it tended to be via pops of color on the lips or eyes, statement-making eyebrows or high-drama flicks of eyeliner. Take at Danielle Scutt, where exaggerated brows in gold were the headline—literally. “We’ve given them a bit of attitude,” said makeup artist Andrew Gallimore, who dreamed up the look.
HAIR Creating coifs was child’s play—at least for seasoned stylists such as Guido Palau and Eugene Souleiman. At Luella, Palau created bunches recalling cartoon characters and played with quirky bangs and cute floral clips, while for Giles, Souleiman wove braids reminiscent of a beautiful (if disheveled) fairy-tale princess. Elsewhere, hair had an effortlessly romantic feel, as at Peter Jensen, where textured, volumized updos created a sense of modern nostalgia.
NEW YORK trend watchers had much to celebrate for spring. While two words usually prevail in new york—neutral and natural—strong colors and voluminous styles dominated on runways uptown and down.
MAKEUP: ORANGE LIPS From subdued corals to neon tangerine, orange was the hand’s-down favorite for lips—a natural evolution from winter’s must-have red.
MAKEUP: WHITE Most often used as an accent or highlight, makeup artists gave white a life of its own. At Ralph Lauren, Tom Pecheux used it around the eyes to offset rosy cheeks for an updated 18th-century look, while the vibe was more modern at Zero, where painterly swipes adorned an otherwise bare face. HAIR: VOLUME Bigger was better for many stylists—but it wasn’t one (big) size fits all. Styles ranged from Guido Palau’s sexy Seventies dos at DKNY to his voluminous masses at Marc Jacobs. “It’s a hair attack!” he gleefully declared. HAIR: ADORNMENT Get ready to decorate! From head wraps to brightly hued scarves, Sixties-style hippie lanyards to quirky head bands and +barrettes (encrusted with Legos at Marc by Marc Jacobs, adorned with flowers at Diane von Furstenberg), hair accessories had a huge presence on runways this season.
HAIR: CURLS The tousled barrel curls that are a staple of New York runways took on many iterations for spring. Particularly newsworthy was the varied lengths, to the ears as at Costello Tagliapietra and Derek Lam or super-duper long as seen at Sue Stemp. HAIR: SIDE ACTION Hair that was slightly left—or right—of center was a popular option, be it minimalist deep parts or skewed decorative braids and buns.
MAKEUP: BLUE As an accent or the main event, blue was the color of choice on fashion-forward runways.
MILAN Rule breakers—those were the words buzzing around backstage, coined by none other than makeup artist extraordinaire pat mcgrath to describe the bold looks on the milan runways. rather than spring’s traditional swipe of lip gloss, sweep of bronzer and bouncy hair, color and texture were in full effect. Just about every big house went the bold route, among them prada, dolce & gabbana, giorgio armani, missoni and moschino. “it’s about going all out with very strong looks for spring,” said Mcgrath, “and striking out with something different.”— Stephanie Epiro
MAKEUP A strong, multifaceted face dominated runways. McGrath created a feathered, insect-like eye at Prada, then went smoldering at Gucci, while Charlotte Tilbury opted for a turquoise glittered eye at Missoni, Aaron De Mey glossy black and silver at Armani and Tom Pecheux masked the entire eye with a vibrant pink at MaxMara. Usually, makeup rules state that a strong eye needs a pale lip. Not this season, where the intensity was ramped up with electric red-orange lips at Bottega Veneta and deep red at Dolce & Gabbana.
HAIR Stylists championed dry textured locks that were arranged into unconventional styles. At Moschino, Guido Palau positioned an askew oversized bun on the top of models’ heads, at Prada, he worked straw-like strands into an undone messy braid and at Roberto Cavalli he pinned lashings of texture-dense hair into a billowing cloud. Odile Gilbert created a bushy ponytail at Fendi, while Malcolm Edwards “kissed” the hair with a crimper at Burberry. Eugene Souleiman insisted on pinning the arty loose curls on every one of the 52 models at Dolce & Gabbana himself. “There’s no technique,” he insisted. “It’s just a feeling.”
PARIS Beauty was in full bloom in paris, where the hair and makeup looks devised for spring 2008 were among the most creative to date. from out-of-this-world concepts, colors and textures, there was no lack of originality—and the bar kept being raised higher. Each show created a beauty fantasy land that perfectly complemented the creations designers sent down the runway.
NINA RICCI “They’re almost like wood nymphs,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath, of the look here. To help create the otherworldly aura, hairstylist Odile Gilbert powdered and feathered coifs. COMME DES GARCONS Faces and hair alike were awash with bright color to create a new tribe of fashion-forward clown.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Smoky eyes stood out from under hat-topped and fabric-draped hair, whose undulating waves and braids emphasized the pirate theme.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO The look here was inspired by Chinese New Year, militant Communist Chinese women, traditional Japanese hairdos and a dash of punk.
CHRISTIAN DIOR Beauty, designed by McGrath and hairstylist Orlando Pita, was character-driven, taking a cue from the idea of Billie Holiday, Josephine Baker, the Great Gatsby and Marlene Dietrich. Unifying all of the looks were thick eyebrows drawn with a hard pencil and textured hair resulting from sprtizes of saltwater.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN With winged creatures in mind, Peter Philips adhered soft gray and pink feathers to some models’ faces. One had her shoulders covered in plumes, while others retained their natural, practically unmade-up looks. Of the hair, Eugene Souleiman was inspired by late Forties-early Fifties pin-up glamour.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Echoing a hue of fabric used in Valli’s fashion collection, some models’ makeup included a cloudburst of airbrushed turquoise. Their updos were all about volume in the back to enhance the ethereal feeling.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews