No one relishes a cold snap like outerwear makers and retailers, so it's no surprise they welcomed the thermometer's recent drop with glee. In fact, stores are saying coats and other cold-weather gear are standouts so far this holiday season.
Of course, a few, such as Steve Blatt, chief executive officer of the coat maker and retailer Searle, knows that waiting out the weather is half the battle.
"There is nothing like cold weather to help out outerwear. If the weather is right, business is good. If the weather is wrong, business is tough," he said. "They have been talking about global warming as long as I have been in the coat business — that's 50 years. Most people nowadays get out early because the dollars aren't available in January and February for outerwear. They are going to sportswear."
Searle takes a different tack and hangs in there until customers stop requesting coats. Director of sales and marketing Rick Weinstein said more coats are sold in January than in any other month. Two years ago, the company was still selling coats in its stores in March.
Searle's signature down coats, which retail from $298 to $798, and Mackage's coats in the $598 to $698 range are drumming up sales. "It pays to hang in there. We will be cutting coats until the last customer asks for one," Weinstein said.
That said, the company is giving shoppers added incentives by marking down a little bit of each category by 30 percent.
At Lord & Taylor, LaVelle Olexa, senior vice president, advertising, sales promotion and public relations, said, "The colder temperatures have helped to improve the coat trend after a difficult early fall. While wool fabrications have consistently sold well, the drop in temperatures has helped the down-puffer category, which had been weak."
In addition, walker-length, fur-trimmed down-puffer jackets in both satin and matte finishes have trended well with the recent cold temperatures, Olexa said. Short down-puffers in both untrimmed and fur-trim jackets also have sold, she said.
L.L. Bean is counting on free shipping, holiday incentives and TV advertising to help boost business in the next few weeks. The Freeport, Maine-based retailer and mail-order business has been offering free shipping since September through its advertising, catalogues and Web site. Last weekend, L.L. Bean rolled out part two of its holiday promotion offering $10 gift cards for orders of $50 or more, now through Dec. 24. L.L. Bean's bestsellers include the Ultrawarm 3/4 Coat, the waterproof Rugged Ridge Parka and the Baxter State Parka."After experiencing a very strong spring season, we saw the same industry-wide softness as other retailers as our fall season began. In addition to the general anxiety around the economy, the unseasonably warm temperatures we experienced in September and October had an impact," said a company spokeswoman.
"Now, as our holiday catalogues have been landing in-home, and with colder temperatures, we saw some business strength returning in November and anticipate a strong holiday season," she added. (For more on holiday shopping, see page 21.)
If the late start to fall weren't enough of a challenge, stores have the added burden of competing against nontraditional outerwear resources like J. Crew, Bloomingdale's, Brooklyn Industries, H&M and Zara. Each company has made outerwear more of a priority this season. J. Crew and Bloomingdale's played up outerwear in their respective catalogues. A J. Crew spokeswoman noted how jackets and coats have been featured more prominently than in seasons past.
Weatherproof was so uncertain about the weather that the company bought insurance as a safeguard — something it had never done before. The brand's business picked up in the past two weeks once the weather returned to more seasonal conditions, Fredric Stollmack, president and ceo said. "If the weather holds as it has in the past few weeks, we should have a tremendous fall season," he said. "There is more of a wear-now mentality. People are holding off on making purchases until they really need it."
Short wool coats and down coats in the $100 to $200 price range are fueling sales. While bookings are stronger than they have been in the past three or four years, Stollmack said he is even more encouraged by the fact that business at retail is ahead of last year. "Last year was a disaster," he said, adding that the warm weather took its toll on the category. He also noted that everything is sold on sale in one way or the other, but in January the prices really drop.
Jody Schwartz, executive vice president of Free Country, an outerwear manufacturer, also addressed the issue of markdowns, estimating stores are offering 40 to 50 percent discounts now and that figure will hit 60 percent next week.That said, major retailers' willingness to feature "door busters" — sale items that are offered for a limited number of hours — during the Thanksgiving weekend helped boost outerwear sales. Macy's featured Free Country's system 4-in-1 jacket at a promotional price of $140 instead of the regular $200. Aside from the price tag, the garment's interchangeability was a plus with shoppers, Schwartz said. With an average retail price of $150, Free Country's down jackets are also popular.
"Stores always promote this time of year — that's the way it is. They ticket high and promote heavily," she said. "But we haven't found promotions to be significantly more than they always are."
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)