At the New York fall collections, the makeup was very polished, hair anything but. The result? A dramatic dichotomy that made for one of the most exciting beauty seasons in recent memory.
Minimalism is usually the name of the game when it comes to beauty at New York Fashion Week. But during the fall 2008 collections, held in February, femininity met sophistication in the form of bold makeup and statement-making hairstyles. Viva la beauty
BUNS Helmut Newton met Minnie Mouse in Odile Gilbert’s charmingly seductive styles at Zac Posen. She wasn’t the only stylist to add oomph to the staid bun. Standouts included Rodarte’s two-tone versions and J. Mendel’s braided beauties.
CURLS Curls are a staple on New York runways. Particularly exciting this year was their diversity, from the Twenties-inspired marcelled waves at Baby Phat to the pinned-up loops at Vera Wang and the riotous ringlets created by Kevin Ryan at Milly, who said his muse was “a flapper the morning after.”
THE TWIST From Eugene Souleiman’s elegant wraps at Monique Lhuillier to the tousled twists at Philosophy and Thakoon, this ladylike style was given an injection of modern quirkiness for fall.
VOLUME “It’s softer, easier, not-so-stiff,” said Orlando Pita, of the Marlene Dietrich-inspired dos he created at Diane von Furstenberg. The same ethos held true for volume overall, as big hair took a turn for the romantic.
PONYTAILS Guido called the look he created at Marc by Marc Jacobs “just a ponytail,” but, enlivened with texture, it was much more. Ditto the styles at Rachel Roy, Rag and Bone and Luca Luca, where new twists freshened up a classic look.
THE NEW NATURAL While minimalist makeup is always a favorite of New York designers, this season natural no longer meant nothing. Bright pink lips adorned bare faces at Marc by Marc Jacobs, rosy cheeks at Tommy Hilfiger, lush lashes at DKNY and pure polish at Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors.
ACID BRIGHTS Bold clothes call for bold makeup, and that’s just what many artists delivered. Tom Pecheux dubbed his look at Catherine Malandrino “organic graphic,” while Gucci Westman created one look using three high-impact shades—purple, yellow and gray—at Behnaz Sarafpour. At Proenza Schouler, Dick Page’s cobalt blue eyes (highlighted with accents of silver and gold) perfectly offset the designer’s saturated color palette. “It’s very dramatic,” Page said of his look. “Strong but easy.”
MUTED TEXTURES AND TONES Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni likened the look she created at Vera Wang to a watercolor painting. She was in good company—powdery textures and soft colors were seen on myriad runways, from the quiet elegance of Isaac Mizrahi to the beautifully soft shades at Thakoon and Anna Sui. METALLICS Copper, gold and bronze, often highlighted with sultry shades of rose and plum, were favorites for creating a smoky eye. Tom Pecheux called his look at Bill Blass “very chic, colorful and glam rock.” “Think Bianca Jagger meets Blondie,” he said. RED-BROWN LIPS Statement-making lips were a key message for fall, with a deep red brown the color of choice. Some were more on the cherry end of the spectrum, others on the chocolate, but the appeal was equal—and undeniable.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews