DALLAS — Fashion Industry Gallery’s three-day trans-seasonal show that ended on March 28 boasted a strong vendor turnout but limited traffic.
“This show was more diluted than usual,” said Cassady Hart, owner of Twnz Showroom. “We’ve already had markets in L.A., Coterie [in New York] and Vegas, so this is the last market of the season. And the weather has been horrid.”
FIG’s permanent showrooms were full, and its newly expanded Shop show was densely packed with 74 booths. Firms new to the temporary show included King Baby jewelry, Ilse Jacobsen sportswear and Aspiga hand-beaded sandals and bags.
“We hosted more lines in March 2014 than we ever have in the history of FIG,” said Emma Greathouse, director. “We were completely sold out of temporary booth space and permanent showroom space.”
The show spotlighted Cammy Herbert and Cologne Schmidt, the chatty young designers of Show Me Your Mumu. Their three-year-old line of flowing gypset tops and dresses in exclusive chiffon prints, velvet and lace is expected to do $5 million in business this year, they said.
“Dallas is my favorite market,” Herbert said. “Our biggest customer is in the South.”
Run by “all girls” under 30, with family and friends pitching in on photo shoots, Mumu manufactures in Los Angeles and sells to 250 specialty stores and through its own Web site.
“We’ve pretty much doubled every year,” Schmidt said.
Melissa White, owner of Heart & Soul in Shreveport, La., said, “I’m picking up fall merchandise by Show Me Your Mumu, which I love. I also found great lace-up distressed leather boots from Rowan Reed by Black Swan.”
State, a young-contemporary division of Bernard Chaus, introduced its fall line at the show after an exclusive first season at Nordstrom.
“They came to us and said we want a contemporary line that retails at $100 to $118, but it’s higher now,” said Michelle Hassloch, sales director. “I’ve done well with our essentials — $58 [wholesale] polyester chiffon tops, layering pieces and crop tops.”
Retailers reported generally lackluster business in January and February, with some pickup in March. “I hate to blame it on the weather, but if I were a shopper I wouldn’t want to take my clothes off either,” said Carrie Schwartzenburg, owner of Raspberry Rose in Houston.
She picked up immediate and fall deliveries of item tops, dresses and jackets by Drew, Bailey 44 and Michael Stars, plus Joe’s Jeans and jewelry by Three Bishops, Virgin Saints & Angels and Chan Luu.
Beth Bauerle, owner of The Main Paige in Grand Junction, Colo., shopped staple brands Wilt, Isda, Chan Luu and Lila P, and checked out new lines like Angelys Balek. She has operated the 6,000-square-foot store for 29 years.
“I’m looking for more contemporary tops that are more hip,” Bauerle said. “I think [designers] have been searching so hard for unique that they have gone way over the top. I like that there are some people who take a more sophisticated look with better fabric, better fit and cut, and don’t have to be excessive.”
Oralia Newton gathered Cheryl Dufault’s semiprecious necklaces dangling Buddhas and other pendants for Only Boutique in Laredo, Tex. The city experienced an unusually cold winter, but business held up due to an influx of wealthy Mexicans from across the border in Nuevo Laredo and royalties from the Eagle Ford Shale.
“I think I’m going to buy a little bit more,” Newton said. “I have only one piece left of Cheryl’s one-of-a-kind necklaces. I also buy Chan Luu’s sterling rosaries and linen by Jen’s Pirate Booty and C.P. Shades.”
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)