PARIS — Buyers at the recent apparel trade shows here were going wild for fur, leather and color.
Many cited budgets up as much as 20 percent for the shows, which included Tranoï, Rendez-Vous, Atmosphère’s, Paris Sur Mode, Capsule and D&A Paris. Running across four days, the events wrapped on March 7 at various locations.
“We found some brands that we fell in love with for the first time in years,” said Pascale Camart, director of women’s buying at Galeries Lafayette. “However, they are not all very commercial. We loved Humanoid, Forte Forte and La Compagnie du Cachemire, which was a real discovery. In terms of trends, we are predicting a return to color, particularly mixing colors like gold, burgundy and green together, and the representation of androgynous and romantic styles have both confirmed our predictions.”
At Tranoï, French fur manufacturer Yves Salomon secured Nordstrom and Jeffrey as new customers, according to managing director Thomas Salomon.
“We are very satisfied with business at the shows [Yves Salomon Accessories was on show at concurrent accessories show Premiere Classe],” Salomon said. “Fashion changes so quickly we have to take advantage of the current trend for fur.”
The company’s Army Fur collection attracted attention from hip stores like Bird in Brooklyn, N.Y.
“I don’t usually buy fur,” owner Jennifer Mankins said. “But it is so popular for this fall. I’m buying the casual line as it’s younger and a little less obvious.”
She picked up a khaki fur-lined stadium coat, priced at 395 euros wholesale, or $549 at current exchange.
Also popular with buyers at Tranoï Bourse were the washed leather jackets by Italian brand Giorgio Brato, whose stand was bustling all weekend. Hamburg, Germany-based multibrand store Feldenkirchen’s owner Claudia Feldernkirchen bought from Brato, as did Farah Monsavvi, owner of Florentin Boutique in Brighton, England. “I love that washed leather look,” she said.
Canadian line Mercy, showing in Paris for the first time at Rendez-Vous, was impressed by the quality of buyers present.
“We have seen some very good quality British and Paris stores,” designer Jennifer Halchuk said.
The brand’s quilted Liberty fabric dress with a bird print designed by singer Edwin Collins, priced $155 wholesale, was particularly popular, Halchuk said.
At Capsule’s second women’s show in Paris, British tomboy brand YMC presented the first collection by its new women’s wear designer Sofia Prantera, who added dresses to the line. An off-white silk dress with navy blue detailing wholesales for 93 pounds, or $150 at current exchange.
“We have seen mainly Japanese and South Korean buyers,” the brand’s sales manager for women’s wear Beth Hackett said. “Urban Outfitters U.K. also bought from us. They are already a big client in the U.S.”
At Tranoï, French brand Ella Luna’s collection of jackets and dresses with integrated jewelry was popular, and will soon be stocked by Harvey Nichols in London, according to designer Ornella Haddad.
D&A, meanwhile, now in its second Paris edition in an expanded, two-venue format, celebrated receiving an award from the U.S. Department of Commerce for its commitment to exporting American fashion, presented by U.S. ambassador to France Charles Rivkin.
Show organizer Ed Mandelbaum said visitor numbers doubled compared with the first show, which took place last October. At D&A, California designer Raven Kauffman’s Everyday Exotics collection of rubber alligator-skin effect handbags created a stir.
“The idea was to create a bag that looked luxurious but was resistant,” Kauffman explained.
The collection already has been picked up by Saks Fifth Avenue at D&A’s New York edition, and in Paris attracted a lot of Japanese buyers, including Isetan and Harvey Nichols, she said. The line’s bestseller is the red Stella clutch bag that wholesales for $158.
“At a 5-to-1 ratio, stores have gone for the colors, and not for black and brown,” Kauffman said.
This was mirrored at French jewelry brand Ela Stone, on show at Tranoï, which introduced a leather handbag collection, with colors including green and taupe selling best. The brand’s jewelry is sold in stores such as Le Bon Marché, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong and Fenwick, said general manager Dov Benitah.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye