Sharon Graubard of MintModa. Photo courtesy of MintModa.
Apparel trends for 2018 are fueled by a return to comfort and utility: think of billowy blouses, slouchy trousers and the resurgence of tabs and drawstrings. Albeit upcoming color and textile trends tell a different story as saturated pigments, graphic colorblocks, shiny fabrics and patent leathers are projected to appear on the runways next year.At MintModa, a New York-based provider of brand-centric trend forecasts for fashion and design-related industries, researchers look beyond design and into the psychology behind material choice and color to deliver apt trend projections. The firm's founder and creative director, Sharon Graubard, is armed with a long-established career in trend forecasting and has held creative director roles at The Tobé Report, The Doneger Group, ESP TrendLab and Stylesight/WGSN. She founded MintModa in 2017 and leads all creative direction for the firm.
Here, Graubard talks to WWD about color trends for 2018, what's in the pipeline for dyed yarns, wools and blends and shares her insights about the psychology behind color and textile trends.
WWD: What color trends can we expect to see in dyed yarns, wools and blends? Sharon Graubard: For yarn-dyes, men's wear shirtings are still trending, so we see an evolution of blue-and-white stripes, fresh ginghams and plaids. For these items, the fabric/patterns are classic but the shapes are reinvented with experimental cuts. We are seeing a renewed interest in black-and-white Prince of Wales plaids (glen plaids) — so many designers showed them on the fall runways; they are sure to impact spring 2018 in tropical wools and blends.We are also seeing an infusion of yellows, from sunny shades to golden ochres and oranges. Saturated pigments like deep bottle green and lipstick red look right, especially when used with shiny fabrics and strong, modernist silhouettes. Pinks are key, and purples and magentas are trending up. Blue is also gaining momentum, and will be key for fall, especially the vivid Yves Klein-influenced ultramarines. And strange combinations of chalky tones, like pale greens and blues mixed with an offbeat peach, update graphic colorblocks.WWD: You predict that ath-leisure will transition into the fashion-forward category “Glo-Mad." Would you elaborate on what’s driving the mix of deep vegetal tones, silvers, golds and neons in this category? S.G.: The concept of ath-leisure will infiltrate all categories. Consumers have made it clear that they want comfort and casualness in their clothing, but items here have been mostly limited to basics like spandex-infused leggings, a cropped T-shirt and a zip-front hoodie. The category will expand to include wrapped or draped dresses, billowing tops, slouchy trousers and voluminous windbreakers. Drawstrings and tabs will make shapes convertible. Deep tones bring newness and urban sophistication to the active category, especially for warm weather, and mirror-finish silver and electric brights provide Instagram-ready visual punch and give it all a futuristic spin.WWD: Why is fashion leaning toward featherweight techno fabrics? S.G.: Featherweight techno woven and jerseys are key here because we are all becoming global nomads. As the "stuff" economy moves toward the experience economy, the new consumer owns less and travels light. Clothes need to be weightless and versatile — lightweight layers that are packable, washable and quick-drying. Linings and structured tailoring are no longer synonymous with "well-made." Clever cuts, interesting details, easy care and multifunction are the things that bring value now.WWD: What is the psychology behind the mix of browns, blues and neutral pinks in “atelier” trends, which MintModa described as the new movement toward workwear and artisanal apparel?S.G.: Atelier is a fusion of craft and workwear, like an embroidered peasant top worn with canvas work pants. The blues and brown signify practicality and are the inherent colors found in the trend’s shirting stripes, simple ginghams, denims, un-dyed canvases and supple leathers. Neutral pink is key because it expands and softens the expected workwear palette, and underlines the gender-fluidity of boxy silhouettes of this trend. The ubiquitous "Millennial pink" moves toward the warmer bisque-tone casts, and works as a neutral along with the tans and indigos.WWD: What else is in the pipeline for color trends and textiles?S.G.: Shine. Satin and other shiny fabrics move forward. The trend toward dry-handed linen-y rustic weaves seems to be giving way to more fluidity, more synthetics and more shine. This is not the dressy idea of satin or charmeuse — instead these shiny materials and silhouettes take their cue from boxing rings, vintage basketball shorts and sleazy cowboy shirts.It’s about questioning the idea of taste, and re-embracing sensuality after recent interest in modesty. There are also ciré nylons, glazed velvets, rubber-coated cottons and wet-look finishes. The shiny patent trench will be a must-have. As designers and consumers understand that synthetics can be more earth-friendly, sustainable — and even more breathable — than organic cotton, the attitudes towards them will shift. These New Age synthetics will lose their plastic-y polyester reputation to become perceived as more advanced, more creative and even more luxurious than their "natural" counterparts.For More Textile News From WWD, See:
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews