Shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood is known for his fashion-forward, architectural stilettos, but when it came to revamping the Pollini accessories line — a job he was hired for earlier this year, along with fellow Brit designer Jonathan Saunders, who is overseeing ready-to-wear — he reined himself in.
“I wanted it to look fresh, but not too avant-garde. It needs to have some sort of sense of a historic brand,” explains Kirkwood, who will continue designing the namesake collection he unveiled in 2005. Taking cues from what he calls Pollini’s “slightly heavier constructions,” Kirkwood, a Central Saint Martins and Cordwainers graduate, designed the spring-summer 2009 collection around stacked heels — some featuring black-and-white stripes, others wrapped in python — and shots of color (red, sea blue and even orange pop up on flats and slingbacks). “It still has some characteristics of what I might do with my own [line],” Kirkwood says, noting that one group features laser cutouts that work a lacy effect — including a high-heeled mini bootie featuring a zippered back that is probably the collection’ssexiest piece. One challenge that briefly tripped the designer up: flats.
“It’s the first time I’ve ever done them, and it sounds like it would be so easy, but there’s a lot to consider,” he says. “It’s a different type of use, more practical, but you also still want it to look interesting.” The solution: Shiny hardware, silk bows and even a tassel or two dress up the line’s ballet flats. Kirkwood and Saunders will launch their runway collaboration during Milan Fashion Week.
Alberta Ferretti's "Rainbow Week" sweaters are back. The designer closed her #MFW show with a few day-of-the-week sweaters, which first debuted on the catwalk last January as part of the pre-fall 2017 collection. #wwdfashion (📷: @delphineachard)