PARIS — Despite persistent economic challenges, trade show organizers in Paris forecast steady attendance for the second half of 2014 as they look to upgrade their presentations to attract buyers.
Many shows under the Paris Capitale de la Création umbrella, the collective that groups many of the French capital’s leading trade shows and events in fashion, accessories and design, are fine-tuning their strategies to attract visitors.
Initiatives include upping the fashion ante for Première Vision Pluriel, returning to September for Bijorhca Paris to better adjust to the accessories retailers’ buying schedule, and focusing on other countries at Who’s Next and Mode City, which will spotlight Turkey and the U.S., respectively.
The shows are to take place amid a lackluster retail climate in France.
“For the seventh consecutive year in 2014, clothing sales in France are in decline, mostly caused by the drop in purchasing power, which impacts apparel spending, and contrary weather conditions,” said François-Marie Grau, general secretary of the French Women’s Ready-to-Wear Federation.
The French Fashion Institute, or IFM, is forecasting a decline of about 1 to 2 percent in clothing sales for 2014 after a 1.6 percent drop in 2013. The luxury end of the market is holding up, though, according to Grau.
“The luxury clientele is mostly made up of foreigners, therefore the luxury market generally follows the exports numbers,” he said.
A return to growth in Germany, the U.K. and the U.S. is boosting exports to these countries. However, he noted that the tensions in Ukraine are weighing on global growth. Growth in Russia is expected to slow, led by an outflow of capital, and exports to Japan are weighed down by the weak yen.
Philippe Pasquet, chief executive officer of the major textile fair Première Vision, which runs Sept. 16 to 18, is “rather optimistic,” forecasting a rise in visitor numbers versus last year.
Première Vision Pluriel — including Cuir à Paris, Zoom by Fatex, Indigo, ModAmont, Expofil and Première Vision — drew 62,932 visitors in September 2013, up 3.6 percent compared to 2012.
“The global environment is getting in the upswing, driven by growth in the American market,” said Pasquet, adding that the number of American buyers attending in September 2013 was up 16 percent year-on-year.
He is prepared for a drop in buyers from Russia due to the crisis in Ukraine, and from Japan because of the government’s monetary policy there.
This season will mark the first edition with all six shows fully integrated since the acquisition of the Cuir à Paris leather and fur trade show earlier this year. Other notable changes include the move by Zoom by Fatex to Hall 6 from Hall 2.
Première Vision, which awarded the Grand Jury Prize of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography to Japanese designer Kenta Matsushige, will showcase his work in Paris as well as at the Première Vision Preview show in New York, set for July 22 and 23.
The PV awards ceremony, singling out four weavers, is due to be held on Sept. 18. Organizers have yet to name the jury president who will succeed Berluti’s creative director Alessandro Sartori, who did the honors last year.
Accessories trade show Bijorhca Paris has been rescheduled to Sept. 5 to 8 two years after a calendar switch. Bijorhca and Who’s Next had been pushed forward to June in 2012 to coincide with the beginning of the international retailers’ buying schedules. However, the date change has been inconclusive, according to Bijorhca organizers.
“We were down to 10,000 in 2013 and 11,000 [visitors] in 2012, from around 14,000 in September 2011,” said Richard Martin, deputy director and artistic director of Bijorhca Paris. “Although we have seen an increase in the number of buyers from Germany, Russia and the Middle East, the date change had a major impact on French retailers because of the coincidence with the sales period in France. September works better with accessories retailers’ buying schedules, especially in the gold, jewelry and watches activity.”
Martin hopes the new dates will help drive attendance to the 15,000 mark.
Who’s Next runs July 4 to 7. Xavier Clergerie, co-general manager of Who’s Next, which includes Fame, Premiere Classe, Who’s Next Accessories, Who’s Next Ready-to-Wear, does not intend to move back to the September slot.
“The show becomes always more international,” Clergerie said. “We are inching our way toward 40 percent of international visitors. Our main goal is to continue to grow on the international markets.”
The show is to spotlight Turkey. Clergerie said, “We see a strong dynamism in the country, both in terms of retailers and designers.”
Among the 2,000 companies exhibiting at the show, about 50 Turkish labels have signed up, including Vakko, Özlem Süer and Maid in Love.
Lingerie fair Mode City, due to be held from July 5 to 7 at the Porte de Versailles, is focusing on the North American markets. U.S. labels such as L Space, Manhattan Beachwear and Swimwear Anywhere are to show for the first time at the fair.
Mode City attracted about 15,300 visitors last July, on par with 2012, including 70 percent of foreigners. Other brands exhibiting include La Nouvelle, a Marseille, France-based lingerie brand, and swimwear specialist Do Paris, with an upscale positioning. Do Paris manufactures in France and Italy using high-tech fabric that dries quickly or with UV protection.
“We see a strong interest in Made in France and Made in Italy,” said Taya de Reyniès, lingerie division director at Eurovet, Mode City’s organizer. “We see it as a differentiator for consumers.”
Among key trends for summer 2015, she cited graphic patterns, trapeze or triangular-shaped cuts, as well as embroideries and vintage fabrics. Mode City has named U.K. designer Melissa Odabash as swimwear designer of the year of Paris Capitale de la Création 2014.
Textile fair Interfilière, held concurrently from July 5 to 7 at the Porte de Versailles, has elected Italian stretch fabric specialist Sitip beachwear designer of 2014.
Paris shows dedicated to men’s wear will take place during the men’s runway presentations. Among them, Capsule Paris Men’s, set for June 27 to 29 at the Cité de la Mode, and Tranoï Homme, which will run from June 29 to July 1. Capsule Paris Women’s will take place at Espace Tapis Rouge in the 10th arrondissement from Sept. 26 to 28.
A fourth edition of Tranoï Preview is due to be held from July 4 to 6. For the first time, it will be at the Palais de la Bourse, like Tranoï Homme.
Tranoï’s shows span women’s fashion at three venues — Palais de la Bourse, Carrousel du Louvre and Hôtel Artcurial Montaigne — from Sept. 26 to 29. Some 600 exhibitors and 12,000 visitors are expected to attend.
Tranoï is innovating this year with the launch of Tranoï Showroom.
“The positioning is very upscale. We are presenting 25 to 30 luxury brands of ready-to-wear and accessories,” said a spokeswoman for Tranoï. “The concept is between the trade, providing exposure to designers as we attract the top stores, and the showroom, which is more intimate and open over a longer period.”
The show is due to be held at Hôtel de Morny from Sept. 26 to Oct. 3.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews