FLORENCE — A new sense of coziness was infused in many of the collections unveiled at the latest edition of Pitti Filati, which closed on June 30.For the fall 2018 season, several high-end Italian spinners exhibiting at the trade show presented rich, voluminous yet lightweight yarns.For example, Botto Giuseppe presented a fluffy merino wool yarn with a dégradé boucle effect, while Zegna Baruffa’s collection included featherweight hairy yarns blending merino wool and alpaca, as well as patterned yarns with textured effects, gauzed mohair and Lurex blends with a velvet-like finishing.This sense of comfortable softness was at the core of the Lineapiù collection as well, which featured baby camel yarns, also incorporating cashmere and viscose fibers for a multicolor effect, as well as yak combined with wool or baby alpaca. This was also mixed with Lurex for added shimmer, while curly mohair was dyed in bright colors.Performance, easy care yarns were another focus at the trade show.While Zegna Baruffa unveiled 100 percent wool yarns for activewear for tennis, golf and sailing, Tollegno 1900 combined craftsmanship and technology in the #24hourworkandleisure collection of performance yarns that combine natural and high-tech fibers. The range includes the Sixtywool Topwash, a blend of extra-fine merino wool and polyacrylic, as well as Cooper and Abarth, where merino wool is mixed with nylon. International textile conglomerate Sudwolle Group — which presented in Florence the Sudwolle Group Italia SpA, a new company collecting different spinners including Safil, Gruppo Tessile Industriale and Hf Filati — showed at Pitti Filati the result of its collaboration with Cordura: a new yarn that combines the high-tech nylon Cordura with merino wool.Other lines presented by Sudwolle Group Italia spanned from organic yarns, rendered in a color palette inspired by fruits and flowers, to the exclusive collection. Along with several extra-fine and superfine merino wool yarns, that collection was enriched with the soft and voluminous Yik, a blend of extra-fine merino wool and yak.Sustainability was another key trend at the fair.For the fall 2018 season, Filpucci, which is marking its 50th anniversary this year, enlarged its collection of Re.Verso upcycled, reengineered yarns with the introduction of Baby Camel Re.Verso, which combines recycled baby camel and extra-fine merino wool with Divette, a superfine yarn that blends recycled cashmere and superfine wool.Botto Giuseppe expanded its sustainable Naturalis Fibra collection with the launch of Aroha, a new yarn featuring wool from mulesing-free New Zealand farms.[caption id="attachment_10938882" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Botto Giuseppe Aroha yarn[/caption]This season Pitti Filati attracted 5,350 visitors, about half of whom were from outside Italy. In particular, the trade show marked a significant return of buyers from Russia and the Far East. While the number of visitors from the U.K., the U.S. and France remained stable compared to last year, the number of Italian buyers dropped 2 percent.“The U.S., the Far East and Northern Europe grew 20 percent in the first semester of the year, while the Italian market is pretty slow due to the problems of the distribution channel,” said Botto Giuseppe managing director Silvio Botto, referring to the country's lackluster economy.International markets are definitely driving the growth of Botto Giuseppe, which expects to close the year up 5 percent compared to 2016, when the company registered revenues of 58 million euros.“The first semester of the year is closing with a small increase and we are quite positive about the next months,” said Lineapiù president and chief executive officer Alessandro Bastagli. “We forecast to close 2017 in line with 2015.” Separately, as reported, Bastagli has finalized the acquisition of luxury niche brand Shanghai Tang, which he acquired from Compagnie Financière Richemont.In 2016, Lineapiù registered a 1 percent drop in sales from 43.5 million euros in the previous year.Among the key markets for Lineapiù, Bastagli cited the U.S. “The U.S. is performing well following the small decrease of last year,” he said. “It’s a market which is constantly evolving and is reacting to the boom of digital.”Like its competitors, Lineapiù had to revise the prices of its collections this season due to the cost of wool, which recently jumped 60 percent. “We tried to increase prices as little as possible and the fact that we have rich stocks helped us,” Bastagli said. “Now wool’s prices seem to be stable but I doubt they will go down again.”At Pitti Filati, Fondazione Lineapiù launched the first edition of the Talents Lineapiù program, aimed at supporting emerging knitwear designers. Twice a year, starting from September, a jury will assign an award to a designer who, for six seasons, will be provided with free Lineapiù yarns to produce his or her samples.“I know so many students who attended fashion school but after graduation they decided to do something completely different,” Bastagli said. “For this reason I wanted to address this program to individuals that are actually trying to build a name for themselves in the fashion industry.”The initiative promoted by Lineapiù was part of a bigger group of projects launched at Pitti Filati dedicated to up-and-coming talents.These included the second edition of Loro Piana’s Knit game talent contest, which saw the participation of students from London’s Royal College of Art, Paris’ École Supérieure des Arts Appliqués Duperré, Milan’s Politecnico and the Iuav University in Venice. In addition, Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery organized the eighth edition of its Feel The Yarn talent search, while Pitti’s organizers teamed with Modateca Deanna, The Woolmark Company, Max Mara and Avant Toi to host a runway show of the knitwear creations of the students of Rome’s Accademia Costume & Moda.Customer care was also one of the main topics highlighted by spinners at the fair. Among the new services introduced by companies to offer a high-end service to their most loyal clients, for example, Tollegno 1900 provided them with the “Fancy Stitches Box,” a package including 30 cards with several knitting stitches made with the collection’s most significant products.New, innovative solutions also came from international companies, including Hong Kong-based UPW, which produces luxury yarns manufactured at its factory in Dongguan, China, and which presented its fall 2018 collection in an art gallery outside Pitti Filati. With Europe as its biggest market, followed by the U.S., the company aims to explore new boundaries in the textile business with new distribution model. In particular, UPW, which relies on an efficient stock service, has recently launched an app that enables clients to order online unlimited quantities of yarn, pay by credit card, and have the products immediately delivered to their headquarters or to the factory manufacturing their products.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.