Kilgour, the venerable Savile Row tailor that has been reinvigorated by designer Carlo Brandelli, has changed hands.
KFS Group Ltd., a private investment firm that has owned Kilgour since 2003, has sold the business to Dubai-based JMH Group, a $250 million concern that supplies chemicals to the construction industry.
JMH Group said it was building a small luxury division. Recently it purchased Ray Ward Gunsmiths, a luxury gun company, and Uplands Stables, a horse racing outfit, through its newly created JMH Lifestyle Ltd. subsidiary. James Hay, a former British Petroleum executive, owns JMH.
The acquisition of Kilgour, which had estimated sales last year of about $10 million, signals JMH's desire to continue to build and diversify its luxury holdings. Terms of the deal were not disclosed. Sources estimated Kilgour commanded about 10 million pounds, or about $14.6 million at average exchange.
The brand has been on an upward arc recently thanks to Brandelli, 37. He was elected British Fashion Council men's wear designer of the year in 2005, and dresses the likes of Jude Law, Daniel Craig and Nick Knight.
The deal signals a redoubled push to grow the brand. Last year, Brandelli launched a more fashion-oriented line built around unstructured suits and jackets. A second store, featuring a big stingray tank, was opened last year on Savile Row in which to showcase it.
The company is exploring retail expansion beyond London, and Brandelli plans to stage Kilgour's first runway show, in Paris, this June. "[The acquisition] represents a wonderful opportunity to help take Kilgour to a whole new level and establish itself as a true international brand in the luxury sector," said David Duncan-Smith, who heads JMH's lifestyle division.
Brandelli will remain with the house in his current role of creative director.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia