Mark Lee is putting his stamp on Barneys New York and his influence is perhaps most evident within the men’s department.
Since joining the upscale retailer as chief executive officer last September, Lee, whose résumé includes successful runs at Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani and Jil Sander, has been building a merchant team, tweaking the mix and reinventing the store’s creative direction.
Although Lee has kept a fairly low profile, the changes that he has made within the men’s store speak volumes about his vision and the direction he’s taking the venerable retailer. This fall, the store has added a variety of new vendors, with more on tap for spring. Most of the additions are exclusives and several are only available in the U.S. at Barneys.
“Our overall goal is to ensure Barneys is really, truly the best specialty store in the world,” Lee told WWD.
And although Lee said he’s working on every category — from women’s and Co-op to Chelsea Passage — the new direction has really taken hold in men’s.
“Barneys began as a men’s store, and it’s had that heritage since 1923,” he said. “That gives it a unique position in the world and we need to work on keep moving that forward.”
When Lee arrived last fall, he quickly dispatched many of Barneys’ long-time executives, including Judy Collinson, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of women’s wear, and Julie Gilhart, fashion director. Other key executives were also vanquished and a new creative director hired.
But through it all, there has been one constant — Tom Kalenderian, the executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear, who has been with the store for more than 30 years and who cut his teeth under its legendary former owner, Fred Pressman. Pressman, son of founder Barney Pressman, is credited with transforming the company from a discount men’s store into a fashion emporium and was the first to bring Giorgio Armani to America.
“Nobody does men’s better than Barneys,” Lee said. “Tom is fantastic. He’s a direct link to Fred Pressman and Gene Pressman [Fred’s son and a former co-ceo]. Tom and Barneys have always managed to find new, rare and exclusive product. With me jumping in, it’s just pushed that up a notch.”
Kalenderian added: “The heritage of Barneys has always been to launch new talent. It’s indicative of the culture of the company and the Barneys customer expects to discover new, different and special things that are relevant and move with the trend.”
Lee said the men’s merchant team pounds the pavement to find new additions to advance the offerings at the store.
Case in point is Piombo, a respected Italian luxury label that is making its debut in the States exclusively at Barneys. The brand will be celebrated with a party at the store tonight.
“We have to thank Mark Lee, who fell in love with our project and with the Milan boutique,” said designer Massimo Piombo. “I think that the decision to add our label to its offering is part of Barneys’ general renovations, which are not just architectural but also involve products.” Piombo is especially excited about the Madison Avenue windows that are being dedicated to the brand. “In order to reflect our aesthetics, we will decorate it with our signature yellow and black panels, carpets and plants, creating a sort of tiny forest,” he said.
Lee agreed that he was first attracted to the brand’s store in Milan. “I had been a customer and a fan,” he said. “Tom and I felt it was the right time [to bring it to the States.] It’s clothing, furnishings and accessories, and we saw it as an opportunity since it wasn’t present in America. It’s our way of updating and bringing forward Fred’s idea of haberdashery.”
Lee said Piombo is one of several new additions this season. “There are one or two special things per floor on Madison Avenue,” he said.
“It helps make the floors interesting,” Kalenderian said.
Another newcomer is Andrea Campagna, whose updated clothing collection is being housed on the seventh floor. “Tom is responsible for that,” Lee said. “He had known of him and his father, Gianni, who was a master tailor. Andrea’s collection is new, modern and fresh but keeps the tradition of real Italian master tailoring.”
Kalenderian said the clothes are “young and modern, but based on an old-world sartorial luxury. It’s an interesting blend, and something a runway client would buy.”
The collection, also exclusive to Barneys, has been “performing exceptionally well,” Lee said, noting that it has “only been in the store for a handful of weeks.”
Turning to the Co-op, Barneys’ more edgy cousin, additions include AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi, a line of modern classics, along with Alexander Wang, who has created a men’s collection for Barneys that is exclusive for this season and next.
Other changes in store include the addition of Fendi on the second floor, joining Armani Black Label and Prada, as well as an “outpost of men’s accessories,” Lee said. “We’ve created a luxury Italian floor with a new energy and a nice connection to the third floor.”
On the third floor, Lee said there’s are several “special things there” including the return of Alexandre Plokhov. “Barneys had a relationship with Cloak,” Lee said of Plokhov’s former brand. In fact, the designer actually used the eighth floor at Barneys to show his spring collection during fashion week.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast