French men’s wear designer Alexandre Mattiussi will launch in the U.S. this fall with a push from Barneys New York. The retailer begins selling the collection in 10 doors this month, in addition to its Web site.
Barneys chief executive officer Mark Lee, creative director Dennis Freedman and fashion director Amanda Brooks will host a party today with Mattiussi in the Madison Avenue flagship, followed by a dinner at Le Bilboquet.
“AMI is targeted for a guy looking for modern classics,” said Tom Kalenderian, general merchandise manager for men’s at Barneys.
Barneys New York is the exclusive retailer for the label in the U.S., which is called AMI Alexandre Mattiussi, apart from The Webster in Miami and Mrporter.com. Barneys is merchandising the collection — which emphasizes wearable staples — in the Co-op department of its Barneys stores as well as in the freestanding Co-op doors.
“I wanted to make a collection that was easygoing, chic and comfortable, without being pretentious. I don’t overthink the clothes,” said Mattiussi. “It’s very easy to make an expensive collection and find the best fabrics and the best production. It’s harder to make a collection in a smart way that’s affordable.”
Mattiussi’s tailored jackets retail for $695, pants for $295 to $375, jeans for $260, shirts for $225 to $285, knitwear for $380 to $555, outerwear for $560 to $740 and a leather jacket for $1,200.
Flannel is a key signature in the line for fall. The legs of jeans are lined in a thin layer of soft flannel, wool sweaters are adorned with flannel elbow patches and the undercollar of a jean jacket is trimmed with the fabric. A mixed-media cardigan is fashioned from flannel with knit wool sleeves.
A small footwear line accompanies the collection, including leather lace-up oxfords and ankle boots with a slender strap detail and crepe soles.
Globally, AMI Alexandre Mattiussi is launching at about 30 stores this fall, including Le Bon Marché in France and 10 Corso Como in Milan and Seoul, and will expand to more than 40 doors in the spring, including Printemps in France and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong.
Mattiussi, 31, was born and raised in Normandy, France and moved to Paris to attend design school at Duperré. At 21, he secured a position at Dior Homme as an assistant on the 30 Montaigne line of classic men’s pieces. He later launched his own collection of shirts before taking a position at Givenchy from 2004 to 2008 as an assistant designer for men’s wear, working for a time under Riccardo Tisci. He then worked for two seasons as a senior men’s designer for Marc Jacobs, traveling between New York and Europe, before leaving to start AMI Alexandre Mattiussi with a group of about 10 individual investors.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast