Simon Doonan has a thing for unconventional women. The Barneys New York creative director has published two books on the subject, and now Doonan has given Barneys’ spring catalogue his seal of approval.
“Dare to be Different” features the frothy top layer of women’s assortments; the retailer believes an economic downturn is no time to retreat from fashion with a capital F and prices with a capital P. Hence Balenciaga’s crocodile laser clutch for $13,500 and Nina Ricci’s $7,500 floral gown. “This is not a season when you’re going to get women to replenish their basics,” Doonan said. ‘“Dare to be Different’ is dedicated to women who reject conformity and embrace eccentricity.”
Doonan cast models as famous oddballs from history such as Isadora Duncan, Virginia Wolfe, Diana Vreeland, Siouxsie Sioux, Millicent Rogers, Edith Sitwell, Marchesa Casarti and Tina Chow. “The references aren’t explicit,” he said. “When people pick through [the pages] they’ll recognize them. They’re show-offs. They’re the women other women want to look like.” A model posed as the madcap jewelry-designing heiress Rogers is wearing a Moncler Gamme Rouge embroidered jacket ($5,000); Duncan is represented by a model wearing Derek Lam’s satin faille one-shouldered jumpsuit ($3,400), and a model inspired by Sioux is dressed in a black Fendi dress ($4,880).
Doonan said he rebelled against the “standard type you see on ‘The Hills,’ the blonde with the fake tan. This is the antithesis of that. It’s a call to arms to remember that the fashion icons of the past were women who dared to be different.”
Doonan and vice president of advertising Lina Kutsovskaya also took a different approach to Barneys’ three spring mailings for men, turning to up-and-coming performers rather than traditional models. “Lina wanted to get away from models,” said Doonan, noting the store opted for “super-groovy, emerging” talent instead. For its men’s designer mailer, Barneys used The Virgins, a New York-based rock band photographed by Alasdair McLellen. The men’s classic catalogue features actors including Luke Grimes, Lukas Haas, Peter Scanavino, Brady Corbet, Rafi Gavron and Vincent Kartheiser, shot by Mark Segal. “Bad Girls and the Boys who Love Them,” the co-ed Co-op mailer focuses on indie film actors Gabe Nevins and Nathaniel Brown, shot by Nick Haymes. “Using some chiseled Adonis isn’t relevant in our culture anymore,” Doonan said. “People today are now more interested in the back story.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion