Simon Doonan has a thing for unconventional women. The Barneys New York creative director has published two books on the subject, and now Doonan has given Barneys’ spring catalogue his seal of approval.
“Dare to be Different” features the frothy top layer of women’s assortments; the retailer believes an economic downturn is no time to retreat from fashion with a capital F and prices with a capital P. Hence Balenciaga’s crocodile laser clutch for $13,500 and Nina Ricci’s $7,500 floral gown. “This is not a season when you’re going to get women to replenish their basics,” Doonan said. ‘“Dare to be Different’ is dedicated to women who reject conformity and embrace eccentricity.”
Doonan cast models as famous oddballs from history such as Isadora Duncan, Virginia Wolfe, Diana Vreeland, Siouxsie Sioux, Millicent Rogers, Edith Sitwell, Marchesa Casarti and Tina Chow. “The references aren’t explicit,” he said. “When people pick through [the pages] they’ll recognize them. They’re show-offs. They’re the women other women want to look like.” A model posed as the madcap jewelry-designing heiress Rogers is wearing a Moncler Gamme Rouge embroidered jacket ($5,000); Duncan is represented by a model wearing Derek Lam’s satin faille one-shouldered jumpsuit ($3,400), and a model inspired by Sioux is dressed in a black Fendi dress ($4,880).
Doonan said he rebelled against the “standard type you see on ‘The Hills,’ the blonde with the fake tan. This is the antithesis of that. It’s a call to arms to remember that the fashion icons of the past were women who dared to be different.”
Doonan and vice president of advertising Lina Kutsovskaya also took a different approach to Barneys’ three spring mailings for men, turning to up-and-coming performers rather than traditional models. “Lina wanted to get away from models,” said Doonan, noting the store opted for “super-groovy, emerging” talent instead. For its men’s designer mailer, Barneys used The Virgins, a New York-based rock band photographed by Alasdair McLellen. The men’s classic catalogue features actors including Luke Grimes, Lukas Haas, Peter Scanavino, Brady Corbet, Rafi Gavron and Vincent Kartheiser, shot by Mark Segal. “Bad Girls and the Boys who Love Them,” the co-ed Co-op mailer focuses on indie film actors Gabe Nevins and Nathaniel Brown, shot by Nick Haymes. “Using some chiseled Adonis isn’t relevant in our culture anymore,” Doonan said. “People today are now more interested in the back story.”
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye