Simon Doonan has a thing for unconventional women. The Barneys New York creative director has published two books on the subject, and now Doonan has given Barneys’ spring catalogue his seal of approval.
“Dare to be Different” features the frothy top layer of women’s assortments; the retailer believes an economic downturn is no time to retreat from fashion with a capital F and prices with a capital P. Hence Balenciaga’s crocodile laser clutch for $13,500 and Nina Ricci’s $7,500 floral gown. “This is not a season when you’re going to get women to replenish their basics,” Doonan said. ‘“Dare to be Different’ is dedicated to women who reject conformity and embrace eccentricity.”
Doonan cast models as famous oddballs from history such as Isadora Duncan, Virginia Wolfe, Diana Vreeland, Siouxsie Sioux, Millicent Rogers, Edith Sitwell, Marchesa Casarti and Tina Chow. “The references aren’t explicit,” he said. “When people pick through [the pages] they’ll recognize them. They’re show-offs. They’re the women other women want to look like.” A model posed as the madcap jewelry-designing heiress Rogers is wearing a Moncler Gamme Rouge embroidered jacket ($5,000); Duncan is represented by a model wearing Derek Lam’s satin faille one-shouldered jumpsuit ($3,400), and a model inspired by Sioux is dressed in a black Fendi dress ($4,880).
Doonan said he rebelled against the “standard type you see on ‘The Hills,’ the blonde with the fake tan. This is the antithesis of that. It’s a call to arms to remember that the fashion icons of the past were women who dared to be different.”
Doonan and vice president of advertising Lina Kutsovskaya also took a different approach to Barneys’ three spring mailings for men, turning to up-and-coming performers rather than traditional models. “Lina wanted to get away from models,” said Doonan, noting the store opted for “super-groovy, emerging” talent instead. For its men’s designer mailer, Barneys used The Virgins, a New York-based rock band photographed by Alasdair McLellen. The men’s classic catalogue features actors including Luke Grimes, Lukas Haas, Peter Scanavino, Brady Corbet, Rafi Gavron and Vincent Kartheiser, shot by Mark Segal. “Bad Girls and the Boys who Love Them,” the co-ed Co-op mailer focuses on indie film actors Gabe Nevins and Nathaniel Brown, shot by Nick Haymes. “Using some chiseled Adonis isn’t relevant in our culture anymore,” Doonan said. “People today are now more interested in the back story.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews