The wave of store openings continues unabated, powered in part by the city’s ongoing tourist boom. About 8.3 million visitors converged on the German capital in the first 10 months of 2011, an increase of 8.3 percent from the prior year. And as Berlin retailers will happily tell you, tourists don’t only tour — they love to shop.
There’s been a slight change in geography, however, and shoppers will be covering a bit more territory than in the past. While the Hackescher Markt area of Mitte (in the former eastern sector) remains the epicenter of shop opening activity, there’s more happening down the side streets and on formerly barren stretches like Linienstrasse. Indeed, Comme des Garçons will be opening shops under both its Black and Pocket monikers there this month.
At the same time, retail pioneer Andreas Murkudis has led a move to less traveled sites in the west. Then, too, former “Old West” strongholds like Kurfürstendamm are staging an energetic comeback, with even more top-notch Ku’damm openings from the likes of Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and 14 oz. slated for this year.
Anuschka Hoevener Fashion designer Anuschka Hoevener gave up her first store on Prenzlauer Berg’s bustling Kastanienallee (“Chestnut Avenue”) only to plant a tree in the middle of her new shop on Linienstrasse. While the leaves aren’t real, the stem is — and it works perfectly as a second rack for assorted clothes and accessories such as mittens, a belted dress and a handwoven scarf. The move has also brought Hoevener closer to her customers. Her studio is not only situated at the back of the shop, the 1,076-square-foot space is also located in the gallery district, the neighborhood where most of her regulars work.
196 Linienstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-4431-9299 Web: anuschkahoevener.de Tuesday to Wednesday, 2 to 6 p.m., Thursday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m.
Le Coup With its pale pink facade and old-school lettering, Le Coup could be mistaken for a Parisian hair salon circa 1970. And while this addition to the Hackescher Markt neighborhood isn’t about hair, the Seventies aren’t far off when it comes to the shop’s emphasis on sky-high disco-era platforms. Owner Conny Stachowiak claims that Los Angeles shoe brand Jeffrey Campbell is the inspiration behind Le Coup’s selection, which includes Campbell’s patent and leather wedges. Other similarly striking models in the two-room store include Australian shoe brand Senso’s ikat print platforms and Minimarket’s thick profile booties. But watch your step — the stuffed peacock in the window is eyeing your every move.
16 Steinstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) Tel. +49-30-6094-4813 Web: lecoupshoes.com Monday to Friday, noon to 7 p.m., Saturday, noon to 6 p.m.
Sandro Having done well at wholesale with corners in Berlin’s KaDeWe and Galeries Lafayette department stores, the French apparel brand Sandro decided to open its first German store on Rosenthaler Strasse. It’s become a favorite with out-of-towners, as well as Berliners looking for a Francophile break from the streetwear looks that dominate the neighborhood. In its 860-square-foot door, Sandro offers simple pieces with twists like red sweaters with white cotton collars or navy knit dresses with attached brooches. The men’s side is slightly more trend-driven, with plaid flannel shirts and navy wool baseball-style jackets spread over several racks as well as three marble and wooden tables in the center of this tube-shaped shop.
32 Rosenthaler Strasse, 10178 (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-2804-0340 Web: sandro-paris.com Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The Flag Gentrification, a sociological buzzword in Berlin’s Hackescher Markt district, doesn’t usually come with architectural surprises, but The Flag, a venture between Eastpak and entertainment agency Styleheads, discovered one when moving into its new shop. The previous owners, a TV repair service, had hidden landmark-patterned tiles on the walls and the stuccoed ceiling behind a thick layer of cement. The new proprietors laid bare the old interior, incorporating it into the renovated decor.
Despite its affiliation with Eastpak, The Flag doesn’t shout “house brand.” Its assortment includes Eastpak’s classic Padded Pak’r styles, fanny packs and pieces designed in collaboration with Kris van Assche or Gaspard Yurkievich, but it also stocks other labels including Unconditional, Urbanears and Uslu Airlines.
26 Alte Schönhauser Strasse, 10179 (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-5448-9340 Web: theflag-berlin.com Monday to Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
The Puppets Focusing on niche and no-name labels, The Puppets might be considered an outcast in this brand-conscious part of Mitte. But co-owner Andreea Vrajitoru, who designs the Berlin label Adddress, has been a fixture on the local retail scene for a couple of years. Indeed, her Adddress shop is just around the corner from The Puppets, which carries pieces from that collection as well as Ava Berlin, Good Luck and Féminine from Paris, plus jewelry from the shop’s other owner, Theresa Brar. The models in the window, instead of standing, are hanging. Like puppets. Which also happens to be the name of the owners’ favorite band.
29 Alte Schönhauser Strasse, 10119 (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-8939-5578 Web: thepuppets.com Monday to Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Shani Bar The city’s Torstrasse is home to a few classic Berlin bars, but Shani Bar is something completely different. The namesake shoe line from Israeli designer Shani Bar melds classic shapes with feminine details like a solid oxford lifted from chunky to cute by its lipstick red coloring, and a flat black ankle boot with ring detailing that’s more mademoiselle than motorcycle. The Tel Aviv-based Bar, who trained in graphic design and photography, has two shops in her home city, but chose the German capital as her first international locale, saying, “Berlin is young, design-oriented, and never takes itself too seriously.” Her shoes, which aim to be well-designed, stylish, sexy and comfortable, might be a good match for the city’s worn-in sidewalks and capricious cobblestones. Prices run from around $178 to $340.
62 Torstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-62-10-119 Web: shanibar.com Monday to Saturday, noon to 8 p.m.
Hannes Roether German designer Hannes Roether has opened his-and-her shops around the corner from each other in Rosenthaler Platz. Like Roether’s clothes, the rough and rustic stores blend country and industrial with sophistication. Casual but carefully cut garments in natural fibers hang on bead chains from ceiling hooks, and a beautiful piano stands ready for play, somehow not out of place amid the weathered walls and vintage telephones on display as decor. The women’s store adds in-wall window treatments as jewelry cases for small treasures, and the men’s shop features a back wall poster of a thinker, Hannes Roether-style — perfectly layered, wrapped and deep in reveries atop a vintage chair.
109 Torstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) Hannes Roether for Women 6/7 Brunnenstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) Web: hannesroether.de Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Weekday The Swedish chain opened its first Berlin shop on Friedrichstrasse about a year ago, and the response was strong enough to go for a second in the Hackescher Markt neighborhood.
Berlin-based architect-designers Gonzalez & Haase took a minimalistic approach to the store, which introduced Weekday’s redesigned interior concept. Wooden pallets, industrial fittings and simple garment rails put the accent on the clothes. These include Weekday’s new low-priced denim line, retailing for around $40; its designer collaborations, including the current one with Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, featuring cropped suiting looks for around $80, and the popular Cheap Monday jeans line. 17-18 Neue Schönhauser Strasse 10178 (Mitte) Tel.:+49-30-240-477-88 Web: weekday.com Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Edsor Berlin’s resident tie manufacturer — and Germany’s oldest — now has a flagship to call its own. The intimate, 950-square-foot store in the landmark Hackescher Hof complex showcases the Edsor palette of woven silk neckties, bow ties, knit ties, cummerbunds, pocket squares and now, socks. And Edsor’s young managing director and literal poster boy, Jan-Henrik M. Scheper-Stuke, is often on site to demonstrate the art of tie crafting.
Andreas Murkudis There’s no sign indicating its existence, and many a seeker has found himself at the wrong Tagesspiegel building. But the new store of Andreas Murkudis, Berlin’s king of destination shopping, has quickly established itself as the treasure trove of choice for those in the know.
Featured in Architectural Digest, Murkudis’ new 10,500-square-foot space in the former printing plant of the Tagesspiegel newspaper airily showcases fashion, accessories, beauty products, objects, furniture, books, schnapps and more from 100 designer and specialty brands. The common denominator, he said, is “quality joined with an aesthetic. And there has to be a story, something one can tell the customer. Great is not enough.”
77-87 Potsdamer Strasse, Haus E, 10785 (Schöneberg) Tel.:+49-30-680-798-306 Web: andreasmurkudis.com Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
F95 The Premium team’s retail window, F95, moved closer to home last fall, taking over what was once the ticket hall at the postal freight depot — also known as The Station, the site of Premium’s offices and exhibition halls. From its start in Friedrichshain six years ago, F95’s raison d’être has always been to “show how Premium works,” said show co-founder Anita Tillmann. “We don’t want to compete with our clients, but there are tons of little stores out there fighting to survive. We’re simply trying to give them some creative reorientation.”
Ninety-eight percent of the almost 100-brand assortment of men’s and women’s wear, shoes, accessories and lifestyle products have been culled from the Premium exhibitor palette. Or in the case of bicycles and chic cycling accessories, from The Station’s Berlin Bicycle Show.
4-6 Luckenwalder Strasse 10963 (Kreuzberg) Tel.:+49-30-420-833-88 Web: f95store.com Monday to Friday, noon to 8 p.m., Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Modulor It’s an inspiration warehouse. Three floors and almost 65,000 square feet are packed with every type of art material — paper, plastic sheeting, packing material, hook, rubber bands, tiny trees for architectural models and more — for sale in an open, loftlike core.
There are also small studios and ateliers around the perimeter of the Aufbau Haus space on Moritzplatz, where 30 Planet Modulor partners have taken up creative residency. They include photo specialists, goldsmiths, mosaic craftsmen, wallpaper designers, carpenters and other artisans. There’s also a sewing studio where one can rent industrial machines by the hour or just learn the basics, plus design shops, a book store, and a creatively regional restaurant in the middle of Coledampf, the kitchenware emporium.
85 Prinzenstrasse, 10969 (Kreuzberg) Tel.: +49-30-690-360 Web: planetmodulor.de Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Bless Shop Home Bless closed its store on the bustling mini shopping stretch Mulackstrasse a year ago in order to prepare for something more personal — a shop on the third floor of a typically Berlin back house, in an apartment that used to be the home of Bless’ co-designer Ines Kaag. And a home it still is, because while there are shoeboxes piled up as towers in one corner, clothes from the current spring-summer collection hanging in the bedroom closet, Bless’ cable jewelry leading the way to the nearest socket, a fur hammock spread across the room, Bless bedding on the mattress and a Bless fabric chair to sit on by a large wooden table, there are just as many, strangely personal looking items in between. But those aren’t for sale, although some shoppers have already tried them on by mistake. They belong to Mira Schröder, the Bless resident who has moved into this home-turned-retail-concept in May in order to live, work and open her door to a steady stream of customers every Thursday.
60 Oderbergerstrasse, 10435 (Prenzlauer Berg) Tel.: +49-30-2759-6566 Web: bless-service.de Thursday, 4 to 8 p.m. and by appointment. Mongrels in Common Though still officially located in Mitte, for the uninitiated, Mongrels in Common’s little nook of a shop feels like it’s over the river and through the woods. Opened just before Christmas, the 250-square-foot space is a fitting showcase for designers Livia Ximénez-Carrillo and Christine Pluess’ hybrid thinking. For besides representing their signature masculine-feminine, casual-chic, romantic-urban stylistic blends, the store’s interior is outfitted with recycled — and reconceived — trash.
The planks of the white wood tables come from a former scaffolding, and the waving hanging rack was an old drain pipe. Customers have a good chance of being advised by the Mongrels duo themselves, because like many Berlin designers, their shop is located at the front of their atelier. 29 Tieckstrasse 10115 (Mitte) Tel.:+ 49-30-280-95997 Web: mongrelsincommon.com Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., or by appointment.
Bershka Inditex’s youngest fast-fashion chain Bershka made its German debut in Berlin, and its store on Tauentzienstrasse is one of the chain’s largest, filling more than 165,000 square feet on two floors. More than 6,000 fans signed up to attend the launch-day party via Bershka’s Facebook site, resulting in the most successful opening in the retail brand’s history (it started in 1998).
Bershka’s target 13- to 25-year-old gals and guys have continued to throng the store for its sport and streetwear ranging from about $5 for simple tops to $95 for winter coats. Color is key for the trendy looks, but green rules the roost. The Berlin location has an eco-concept that includes mannequins made from recycled plastic, efficient water and light usage, renewable energy and more — but prismatic fixtures and a lively light show in the escalator bank keep the green scene fun. 14 Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 (Charlottenburg) Tel.: +49-30-2101-8411 Web: bershka.com Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews