Berlin’s retail scene continues to heat up, fueled by a constant stream of shop-happy tourists. On the big-name trail, Hugo Boss and Filippa K are the latest to open flagships on Kurfürstendamm, Berlin West’s most important shopping street. At the same time, the ongoing popularity of the area around the Hackescher Markt in Mitte is reflected in recent openings by Karl Lagerfeld and The Kooples, with Nike taking over about 6,000 square feet there later in 2014.
Of particular interest, however, is the latest batch of independent retailers that have opened in the city’s trendier neighborhoods over the last few months. Three trends stand out:
• Berlin-based designers and brands eager to activate their own retail stage;
• Assortments with a specific ethnic or national focus;
• Stores specializing in sustainable, eco-friendly and fair trade items.
Here are a dozen of the city’s most inviting new shops.
LAPÀPORTER In a minimal and modern retail environment integrating a workshop and design studio, customers can browse an assortment of small leather goods and accessories, while viewing the process of creating a custom laptop case or iPhone case. All made in Berlin, Lapàporter’s useful leather accessories are handcrafted of solid, color-blocked or braided leather, plus suede or python skin, and range from 59 to 400 euros, or about $81 to $547 at current exchange.
— Norma Quinto
65 Brunnenstrasse (Wedding) Tel.: +49-30-245-537-196 Web: lapaporter.com Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
MAIAMI Maike Dietrich is the latest Berlin designer to go the “own shop” route, taking over part of the contemporary jewelry Galerie Oona for her knitwear label Maiami. Turning a hobby into a business, Dietrich learned traditional knitting techniques passed down by her family, and offers lush handcrafted knit items in soft pure wools from Germany and mohair from Italy.
Current highlights are a multicolor wool/mohair sweater for 255 euros (about $350) and a virgin wool knit cap for 69 euros (about $94). Also featured in the shop are vases, pillows, lamp shades and laptop bags, all in Maiami’s signature knits.
— N.Q. 26 Auguststrasse (Mitte) E-mail: email@example.com Web: maiami.de Tuesday to Saturday, 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
PAZ D'ALMA Owner Ana Santos wants Berliners to experience her love for her native Portugal through a wide range of Portuguese products, as well as bringing traditional handmade items and new design concepts into the realm of everyday life.
Her shop, which also houses a small café, focuses on sustainable products in materials including wood, wool, cork and felt, though notebooks, candles, soaps and Portuguese specialties including jams, wine and spices are also part of the assortment. One design novelty, the “I’m so Tired” stool, is made from a recycled car tire wrapped in colorful yarn for 390 euros (about $535). Santos hosts regular in-store exhibitions and installations, as well as wine tastings and film evenings to complement her retail concept.
121 Linienstrasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-643-199-00 Web: paz-dalma.de Tuesday to Friday, noon to 8 p.m.;Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
SILO STORE BERLIN The new Silo concept store in Prenzlauer Berg stocks specialties such as wine, chocolate and olives, alongside accessories including bags, blankets, home furnishings and children’s toys. All products have been designed and/or manufactured by traditional artisans in Spain.
The store is the project of architect Julieta Benito Sanz and designer Elena Nieto — both from Madrid — and Colombian Cristina Schuttmann, who worked in theater and film production.
Placing emphasis on sustainability and artisanal production methods, each product tells its own story. Notable items are Eco Alf vests and jackets made from recycled fishing nets or recycled plastic bottles, selling for 82 to 199 euros (about $112 to $270).
33 Senefelderstrasse (Prenzlauer Berg) Tel.: +49-30-526-846-33 Web: silo-store.com Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
INTERNATIONAL WARDROBE What started as an online business a year ago is now a shop catering to anyone fascinated by ethnic folklore. Owner Katharina Koppenwallner is an art historian who works as a stylist, and who has a passion for costumes. Every item in the shop is handmade. Many pieces are embroidered by indigenous people from around the world, from Romania or China to Guatemala or Laos, and often decorated with tassels and pom-poms.
Koppenwallner stresses the importance of bringing back the traditions of these cultures to our time. The offer includes blouses from Bukovina, aprons and tunics from Kalotaszeg, embroidered Romanian dresses and embellished men’s jackets.
50 Almstadtstrasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-501-776-71 Web: internationalwardrobe.com Thursday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m.
ATELIER AKEEF Berlin’s first ecological and sustainable lifestyle shop for men’s fashion is entirely dedicated to designer ranges. It was founded by British sustainability expert Michael Ashley and Kinetic A.M.’s Alan Sommerville from Scotland, out of a desire to showcase brands that wed style, function and sustainability.
“People are starting to care about what they wear, what they put on their skin, as much as what they eat, and we are here to help customers find fashion for a better way of life,” Ashley said.
Sophisticated yet cozy, the interior stays true to the cause, making use of upcycled wood, sustainable clay, nontoxic colorants and energy-saving lighting. The diverse range of sustainable products includes Mill Organic natural cosmetics, organic cotton sports jackets, Elvis & Kresse’s recycled accessories, Veja’s stylish and ecological leather sneakers and Clans of Scotland cashmere scarves.
31 Max-Beer-Strasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-219-826-45 Web: atelierakeef.com Wednesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
HAPPY SOCKS POP-UP STORE Swedish friends Viktor Tell and Mikael Söderlindh, whose vision is to spread happiness by turning an everyday essential into a colorful design piece, have now brought the Happy Socks collective of creators and their playful hosiery to Berlin.
The brand’s long line of collaborations continues this season with David LaChapelle, a photographer well known for his provocative style. The result is a short movie and photographs bursting with party-favor colored socks, and a campaign of naked, steeled bodies with dazzling scenery. The Berlin shop, one of more than 30 recent round-the-world pop-ups, will stay open until Feb. 28.
— N.Q. 11C Munzstrasse (Mitte) Web: happysocks.com Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.;Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
AESOP Australian natural care line Aesop’s first German store rubs elbows with trendy Mitte neighbors including frequent Aesop partner A.P.C. Designed by local architecture and design firm Weiss-heiten, the store’s tiled floors and walls are in an intricately alternating pattern of light and dark jade green, some with rough edges and small imperfections calling to mind the eternally unfinished German capital.
The overall design draws on influences as diverse as German painter Gerhard Richter, old-fashioned tiled coal- and wood-burning stoves and the city’s stark industrial architecture, explained Weiss-heiten’s Alberto Franco Flores.
“Aesop is always reflecting very locally, trying to get the substance of something,” he said. “We wanted to show the layers of the city.” The clean lines also show off exacting rows of Aesop’s tastefully packaged and fragrant natural products.
— Susan Stone
48 Alte Schönhauser Strasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-2809-6560 Web: aesop.com Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
LENA HOSCHEK Lena Hoschek’s retro stylings have gone west. The Austrian designer’s new showroom and store in an ornate historic building in Berlin’s Westend neighborhood offers vintage charm and personal service away from the madding Mitte crowd, as well as more room for running the brand’s new online shop.
During the week, visits are by appointment only; on weekends, everyone is welcome to browse Hoschek’s curve-centric Forties and Fifties-influenced fashions, beloved of modern-day pinup girls.
Bedecked with antique fixtures and furnishings, the cozy sitting room boasts velvety armchairs, framed photos and swagged curtains for a touch of granny chic, while parquet floors and chandeliers in the salon set off Hoschek’s designs, including the latest richly kitsch collection, Russian Rose.
18 Kastanienallee (Westend) Tel.: +49-30-58-58-1330 Web: shop.lenahoschek.com Hours: Monday to Thursday by appointment;Friday, noon to 7 p.m.;Saturday, noon to 5 p.m.
THE OPTIMISTIC STORE The Optimistic Store has more than just good intentions. The Berlin fashion and design boutique, which recently relocated from Brunnenstrasse to Rochstrasse, presents young labels from the international scene as well as limited art prints, select housewares and paper goods.
“I come from Paris, and was fed up always seeing the same supposedly cool French label pop up everywhere in Berlin,” said shop owner Nathalie Verchere. “We are taking the risk to present labels unknown in Berlin, often exclusively.”
Verchere’s French picks include Tigersushi Furs, a line of unisex knitwear and T-shirts from record label Tigersushi; apparel designed by blogger Margaux Lonnberg, and olive oil-based soaps from Marius Fabre.
Other cheerful choices include Berlin’s Zookie accessories and Beadleg clothing, and Frends headphones from California.
17 Rochstrasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-176-3497-5410 Web: theoptimisticstore.tictail.com Monday to Saturday, noon to 8 p.m.
LE MONDE NALLIK Raw precious and semiprecious stones and earthy brushed brass are the fundaments of Jean Balke’s jewelry line Nallik, named after an untranslatable Inuit word roughly meaning nurturing and protection.
Her chunky talismanic pieces have starred in numerous fashion shoots, as well as on-counter in global boutiques and also Anthropologie. In her small Mitte shop, Balke has surrounded her designs with favorite discoveries unearthed through her travels. The regional artisanal picks include organic soap from Brooklyn, handmade Italian porcelain, jewelry from London’s Jenny Sweetnam and scarves from Botswana-born, Paris-based Bonana van Mil.
The shop also hosts photography and prints for appreciation and purchase, as well as Balke’s atelier. Depending on the stones used, Nallik jewelry retails for about $177 to $329.
187 Brunnenstrasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-544-692-97 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Web: nallik.com Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 7 p.m.
TOWNES “I’m in love with cities I’ve never been to,” declares the front window of the small Townes boutique.
This carefully curated vintage designer shop takes shoppers around the world via its global labels, but its reasonable prices leave them with enough spare change to save up for an international plane ticket.
Shoko Kawaida, an urban nomad originally from Tokyo, has populated her store with shoes and accessories for men and women, rarely seen pieces from Comme des Garçons, Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, Pendleton and Céline, artfully but simply displayed.
— S.S. 56 Linienstrasse (Mitte) Tel.: +49-30-3993-4988 E-mail: email@example.com Web: townes.de Monday to Saturday, noon to 8 p.m.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)