PARIS — Buyers attending the Premiere Classe and Bijorhca accessories trade shows here predicted that the category will remain the bright spot amid a potential recession.Bold colors emerged as a key trend at the shows that ended their four-day runs Jan. 27."It's rather a contrast to the dismal headlines of falling stock markets and crashing economies," said Bella Huddart, accessories buyer for Australian store Georgettis. "It gives us hope."Though some small chains and boutiques had trimmed budgets 20 percent, most retailers were in a positive mood, some spending 30 percent more than last year. Scarves were driving orders."Everyone is asking for them," said Bonnie Fasano, head of product development for Berry, a New York-based wholesaler to stores such as Express and Anthropologie. "In Europe, people don't just wear them outside, but like a necklace."Graphic and retro patterns were key directions in scarves, said Sacha Skott Andersen, accessories buyer for Danish department store Illum.With Illum's accessories sales up some 33 percent for the year, Andersen's spending was higher. She snapped up Franco Ferrari's Bloom Garden bright printed collection, which proved a hit at the show."The kind of customer we deal with suffers a bit less than the lower end," said Matteo Uliassi at Franco Ferrari.There was a general move to trade up. Sally Oliver, fashion accessories buyer for Morleys in the U.K., said the five-door department store chain is raising its accessories price points and branding."If you're in the middle market, you can't compete now," Oliver said. "You need to go one way or the other."Oliver named Danish brands, including Kudibal scarves, among standout collections.Patent leather was a direction in bags, as seen at Stéphane Verdino, while jewelry trends included plastics, lots of filigree plus oversize balls in necklaces."It's really Marni-like," said Berry's Fasano.Although some exhibitors bemoaned a slow fair, business was brisk at Jessica Kagan Cushman. New accounts for the funky plastic bracelet firm included Italy's Coin department store.At Erickson Beamon, colorful, chunky necklaces featuring feathers and semiprecious stones were selling well."I think [the recession] might miss our customer altogether," said Erika Ballen, the brand's sales product coordinator.Buyers for It Girls, a boutique in Bournemouth, U.K., said the store would spend 30 to 40 percent more than last year.Lisa Shortbridge of accessories store La Rue Marche in Hudson, Wis., said, "Even with the weak dollar, we're still doing wonderfully. We haven't figured out where the doom and gloom is coming from."Others were feeling the economic chill, though. At eight-door chain The Jewellery Stop in the U.K., business has slowed considerably. "We had a good Christmas, but January is diabolical," said the director, Victoria McGowan-Smyth."There's a climate of unease and restraint," said Paula Reeves, chairman and chief executive officer of Black, an online accessories retailer based in the U.K. "It makes it more important to find that something unusual, and good quality."Retailers are changing direction more quickly, Fasano said."They switch from one month to the next," Fasano said. "They're quicker to pull something if it's not working straight away."Some brands had cut their minimums, suggesting fear of a slowdown."Stands will take any order," said Margaret Halley, whose budget for Sorbet, a 1,000-square-foot boutique in Tipperary, Ireland, was down 20 percent. "Before, they wanted a big order, money-wise. There was one belts stand. We weren't even going to ask, but they took the order."
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)