Fashion houses were particularly active this season, enticing consumers with pop-up stores on both sides of the Atlantic. In Milan, Chloé, which has no monobrand boutique in Italy, took up temporary residence at Corso Como to give a platform to its 16-piece reedition collection, part of its 60th anniversary festivities.
“It’s been so successful, we’ve realized New York is the place to be. It’s a very strong market for us,” says Bruno’s Marie-Anne Capdeville. “We will keep the pop-up until June at least. If we can’t stay longer, we will find something else for sure.”
Pop-ups are as fun as they are convenient. The idea is “to create a little buzz around a brand, without the long-term risks and investments of a permanent retail outpost. It’s also a kind of cost-savvy solution to get a foot in the market,” explains Japanese designer Miharayasuhiro, who feted his first pop-up in Paris’ Joyce Gallery with a koto concert and sakura liquor during fashion week. He calls it “a communication strategy to import our concept to Paris and be able to show our complete collection, as we do in Tokyo.” This included exclusive pieces the designer produced in collaboration with Bette Ridgeway and Jun Inoue, with which he “managed to attract some new clients who didn’t know the brand.”
Also at the Joyce Gallery, Mugler showed off its first handbag collection, before it officially hit stores around the globe. The brand plans a second pop-up at the Gallery, which will run until May 31, to present its summer ready-to-wear line for men and women.
Dior orchestrated not one but at an entire series of temporary boutiques around the globe—starting with Colette in Paris. The brand was looking for something different to introduce Raf Simons’ fresh take on its codes to a wider, preferably younger, audience.
Topshop’s chief marketing officer Justin Cooke explains he always has the next generation in mind when popping up some place. “Pop-ups give us the opportunity to test and play before we have our own physical space [and they] help us engage with a new customer.”
Cooke tested the strategy in Chicago and Los Angeles, where the British retailer “built up a strong local customer” before the actual store opened. Last year, the brand launched topshop.fr, an e-commerce site in French, which he says “is growing at a rapid rate.”
“We also see a huge number of girls coming from Paris just to shop on Oxford Street, so we know there is a huge appetite for the brand and we [wanted] to understand that better,” he says, adding that “pop-ups definitely create a buzz and almost always sell through all the stock, creating higher demand.”
There is only one disadvantage, cautions Colette’s forward-thinking Sarah Andelman: “Too many pop-up shops kill pop-up shops. Now I’m not sure we can still use this expression.…” Andelman cites “a show” on “Keith Haring & Fashion” running at Colette until May 3. “We’ll carry many Keith Haring products in our gallery space, so it’s a kind of ‘pop-up shop,’ but we don’t announce it this way anymore.”
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)