MILAN — Change is in the air at Coin’s beauty halls.
Following the acquisition of mass market clothing retailer Upim in December by Gruppo Coin SpA, the new Italian owner is busy revamping prime Upim locations into new-look Coin stores.
In an interview here at Coin’s headquarters, Gruppo Coin perfume and cosmetics manager Paolo Valerio outlined proposals for a new Coin premium beauty shop, dubbed Excelsior.
Situated on Milan’s central Corso Vittorio Emanuele street, a stone’s throw from Sephora’s new Italian flagship, the former Excelsior cinema is to be transformed into a new beauty concept store by French Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel.
The 32,292-square-foot space is to open its doors in September 2011 and is being designed to offer beauty services alongside a top-level, niche product assortment. Valerio hinted the concept could be rolled out to another two or three existing locations within Upim’s portfolio of desirable properties.
Coin also is upgrading the image of Upim’s remaining stores, including their beauty and cosmetics halls, with a new logo, layout and fittings, as well as an emporium-style assortment. Valerio discussed plans to create an accessible beauty offering for Upim, which he referred to as “pop,” mixing prestige labels with mass market brands and reflecting a retail positioning similar to that of Boots drugstores in the U.K.
OVS Industry, which is Coin’s more popular priced sibling, is due to receive an upgrade. Its mass market beauty assortment is being bolstered with the addition of selective-market brands.
According to industry sources, the group’s ambitious plans are set to more than double the current size of Coin’s beauty business, which has been estimated at well below 100 million euros, or $123.9 million at current exchange.
Coin Group’s plans are taking shape. Around half of Upim’s existing 149 directly operated stores already have been transformed into Coin and Coin brand OVS Industry points of sale.
Six Upim shops morphed into Coin stores in April with an upgraded image and product assortment, and a further 12 Upim stores are being converted this month. A total of 16 Upim stores were converted in March to the OVS brand, with a further 13 set to follow late this month.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast