SANTA MONICA, Calif. — A 21-year-old brand that generates more than $100 million in sales in its native Brazil and flaunts supermodel Gisele Bündchen in ads, Colcci is taking measured steps to break into the U.S. market.
Owned by AMC Textile, which says it is the second-largest manufacturer in Brazil, the young contemporary label has opened its first U.S. office here with five employees, who are trying to build a wholesale business in a market that they acknowledged to be difficult, competitive and fast-moving.
"For any company, not just a fashion company," the task would be a challenge, said managing director Roberta Cysne, who previously worked at Diesel in Italy and Liz Claiborne in Amsterdam.
Colcci faces competition not only from fast-fashion retailers including Los Angeles-based Forever 21, but also other emerging young contemporary labels like Hot Kiss Inc.'s Emphasis. The U.S. is the latest foreign market Colcci is entering. It established operations in Europe in 2003, and in Australia and Japan a year later. Annual sales in France, England, Italy and about a half-dozen other European countries already number $18 million at wholesale. Cysne said it had a retention rate of about 60 percent with European retailers and planned to open its first European store in Spain in 2008.
Still, the U.S. is an important market, and one where Colcci hopes to exceed its business in Brazil, where it has 120 freestanding stores and 1,000-plus points of sale. Though Cysne plans eventually to open a store in the U.S. and stage a fashion show in New York, she said the current focus was to open accounts with specialty shops and chains that have six or seven locations. So far, Colcci has booked orders from Vault Jeans in Houston, Scarlet in Little Rock, Ark., Staxx in Springfield, Mo., and others.
Colcci, to be launched in the U.S. for winter, designs for four seasons, 230 to 300 stockkeeping units per season; men's styles will make up a third. (Colcci offers 800 to 1,000 sku's per season in Brazil.) Average wholesale prices are $30 for tops, $40 for denim, $45 for sweaters, $50 for nondenim bottoms and $75 to $80 for jackets.
A Stella McCartney sketch of a custom dress made from protein-based silk in partnership with biotech lab Bolt Threads. The dress will be displayed at The Museum of Modern Art's upcoming design exhibition, "Items: Is Fashion Modern?"