NEW YORK — It is no longer enough to simply have a mass market mineral line.
Just ask Lisa Yarnell, president and chief executive officer of Jane Cosmetics. Her company was among the first to go mass with minerals with the launch of Be Pure. Sales soared, but she quickly saw a bevy of competitors join her on mass shelves. She knew she needed an encore.
In addition to reinforcing Jane's mineral line's value positioning, the company has a battery of new items set to hit the market in the first half of 2008. Jane will double its Be Pure product line to total 88 stockkeeping units. The company will also commit to its first national TV campaign.
Minerals have become a hot property at mass. According to ACNielsen data reported in November, minerals accounted for 4 percent of total cosmetics sales and industry sources said recent statistics reveal minerals hitting more than 10 percent. Without minerals, overall sales across color cosmetics in food, drug and mass would be down. With that said, almost every company is launching minerals and looking for a special market niche.
"We are the only one in value with a full line of lip, eye and face," said Yarnell, who said a mass shopper doesn't want to shell out the $13 retail price of some of the other widely distributed mineral offerings. A pricing survey by the firm found Jane's retails of $3.99 to $6.99 were lower than competitors including Physicians Formula, Cover Girl, Revlon, Neutrogena, Maybelline, Almay and L'Oréal. Nielsen data also shows value is the fastest growing segment within total cosmetics.
"On a unit basis, Jane Be Pure grew double digits, surpassing Cover Girl and on par with Neutrogena, and this is due to the success of Be Pure as well as sell-through on holiday Be Pure kits," said Yarnell. She firmly believes Be Pure is taking share from competitors, including those sold outside of the mass realm.
"We were also the only brand in drugstores with mineral kits," said Yarnell. Retailers confirmed that the Be Pure mineral makeup in a box was a brisk seller for the holiday — supplanting fragrance gift sets in some circumstances. She added that minerals in general are bringing more shoppers to the drugstore.Realizing face makeup is Jane's strongest category, representing more than 40 percent of total sales, the company decided to expand its lineup. Face products are a destination category and higher dollar ring for retailers. Jane minerals are available in multiple forms including liquid foundation, powder foundation, pressed powder, loose powder, loose blush and press blush, as well as two new brushes. A few examples of the new lineup include Be Pure Mineral Skin Perfecting Foundation and Be Pure Mineral Oil Free Bronzers.
Despite the concentration in face, Jane has new lip pencils on tap as well as shadows. There are Mineral Gliding Liners, Mineral One Liners and Mineral Eye Lighter Shadows. Also in the lineup are Mineral Lip Balms.
One goal is to bring mineral use to young consumers, many not using face products. TV ads will be aimed at more users in the 18- to 34-year-old range.
Also new for the traditional Jane line are Max Lash2 Waterproof mascara, Extreme Mascara and EZ Gel Liner and Brush. The mascaras feature new-technology brushes.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast