NEW YORK — With continued ebbs and flows in retail traffic, buyers are looking to purchase their merchandise closer to season than ever.
That was the general sentiment at the fall-holiday Designers & Agents show, which ended its three-day run at the Starrett-Lehigh Building in West Chelsea on Wednesday. The show is significantly smaller than the main spring and fall editions, and for many visitors, it also offers an opportunity to catch up with some of the resources about the state of business.
“We are selling immediates,” said Kirsten Basso, sales manager of New York-based label Skin. “The economy is getting better, and our stores that sold out a lot for spring are looking to fill in for summer.”
Founded in 2003 by Susan Beischel, who also serves as creative director, Skin prides itself on its use of natural fabrics, including organic cottons. Bestsellers at D&A included a brushed cotton jacket for $105 wholesale, an alpaca and silk moto sweater for $156 and a dolman sleeve jersey top for $45.
Santa Monica, Calif.-based brand Matonyok offers accessories hand made in Kenyan villages to create sustainable employment and education of women in the Masai community. Mary Argimon, who designs the line with Jessica Walsh, said that this season, some of the more artisanal elements were tempered for a selection of chic metallic leather bags with added beaded tassels that can serve either as embellishment or removable key chains. Clutchlike metallic zip bags wholesale from $55 to $75, while totes can range from $249 to $269. “The show has been good,” Argimon said. “Everyone is supportive of the idea of sustainable employment.”
As in past May editions, D&A featured a Green Room focused on sustainability. A. Jason Ross, who designs the Artemas Quibble accessories line and also collaborates with Donna Karan, drew from archeology and ancient shapes to create new clasps for handmade belts and bags, with details including silver, brass and antique objects. The overall effect was rough but still sophisticated, down to wire-wrapped Moroccan cuff bracelets.
Barbara Kramer, who organizes the show with Ed Mandelbaum, echoed many vendor sentiments. Although business is still not seeing the significant uptick many are hoping for, “We have had great stores here,” she said. “Buyers are buying closer to delivery.”
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)