NEW YORK — Doo-Ri Chung sells Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue and just dressed First Lady Michelle Obama for a state dinner.
Now she’s next up in Macy’s guest designer series, but there’s no designing down for the masses. “The customer is very different from whom we’ve catered to before, but I really didn’t have to adapt. Macy’s wanted to keep the design level high. I didn’t feel the challenge was very different,” Chung said in an exclusive interview.
“We wanted her to keep to her DNA,” added Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s Inc. group vice president and fashion director. “It’s about her soft sinuous draping, how she works with jersey, her colorblocking. She has a very sensuous approach to clothing. It’s modern couture for the new millennium customers.”
Beginning Feb. 15, the Doo-Ri for Impulse, Only at Macy’s collection will be sold for about eight weeks in about 225 Macy’s stores and on macys.com. Chung is the fifth designer to participate in the company’s designer capsule collection series, which launched with Kinder Aggugini last February, followed by Matthew Williamson and Karl Lagerfeld, and continues with Giambattista Valli next week. The strategy is geared to draw younger and more fashion-conscious customers to Macy’s contemporary department, called Impulse, and cast a hipper halo over the store.
According to Macy’s officials, the series is resonating, and will continue at least through 2012 with other designers, though they would not disclose any beyond Chung.
In creating her Macy’s collection, Chung had a strong feeling about what would be right. “Women definitely want clothes that are versatile. I love pieces that you wear for day, and when you accessorize, become perfect for evening too,” Chung said.
Her Macy’s collection will feature a lot of what she’s known for, like draping, as well as jersey and detailed knitwear, and art-inspired prints. There are also short and maxi-length dresses, leggings, blouses, and trenchcoats, among other pieces. “I am always surprised women really gravitate toward my trench coats,” Chung said, though they seem to have become one of her signatures. Prices on the collection range from $39 to $159. Designing for Macy’s, Chung said, was “pretty labor intensive, involving a lot of elements.”
“It’s a true collection, a complete wardrobe, not just items,” Fischelis observed.
“Doo-Ri understands what women want to wear and how elements like fabric and silhouette can flatter the body,” said Jeff Gennette, Macy’s chief merchandising officer.
Chung, a Korean-American, launched her signature collection in 2003 after graduating from Parsons The New School for Design and working with Geoffrey Beene for five years. She’s received several prestigious design awards. Her most recent feather in the cap was dressing the first lady for a White House state dinner with President Lee Myung-bak of South Korea, with a vivid plum-colored, one-shouldered jersey gown, adapted from a runway look, and accented with a turquoise beaded belt.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)