NEW YORK — Doo-Ri Chung sells Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue and just dressed First Lady Michelle Obama for a state dinner.
Now she’s next up in Macy’s guest designer series, but there’s no designing down for the masses. “The customer is very different from whom we’ve catered to before, but I really didn’t have to adapt. Macy’s wanted to keep the design level high. I didn’t feel the challenge was very different,” Chung said in an exclusive interview.
“We wanted her to keep to her DNA,” added Nicole Fischelis, Macy’s Inc. group vice president and fashion director. “It’s about her soft sinuous draping, how she works with jersey, her colorblocking. She has a very sensuous approach to clothing. It’s modern couture for the new millennium customers.”
Beginning Feb. 15, the Doo-Ri for Impulse, Only at Macy’s collection will be sold for about eight weeks in about 225 Macy’s stores and on macys.com. Chung is the fifth designer to participate in the company’s designer capsule collection series, which launched with Kinder Aggugini last February, followed by Matthew Williamson and Karl Lagerfeld, and continues with Giambattista Valli next week. The strategy is geared to draw younger and more fashion-conscious customers to Macy’s contemporary department, called Impulse, and cast a hipper halo over the store.
According to Macy’s officials, the series is resonating, and will continue at least through 2012 with other designers, though they would not disclose any beyond Chung.
In creating her Macy’s collection, Chung had a strong feeling about what would be right. “Women definitely want clothes that are versatile. I love pieces that you wear for day, and when you accessorize, become perfect for evening too,” Chung said.
Her Macy’s collection will feature a lot of what she’s known for, like draping, as well as jersey and detailed knitwear, and art-inspired prints. There are also short and maxi-length dresses, leggings, blouses, and trenchcoats, among other pieces. “I am always surprised women really gravitate toward my trench coats,” Chung said, though they seem to have become one of her signatures. Prices on the collection range from $39 to $159. Designing for Macy’s, Chung said, was “pretty labor intensive, involving a lot of elements.”
“It’s a true collection, a complete wardrobe, not just items,” Fischelis observed.
“Doo-Ri understands what women want to wear and how elements like fabric and silhouette can flatter the body,” said Jeff Gennette, Macy’s chief merchandising officer.
Chung, a Korean-American, launched her signature collection in 2003 after graduating from Parsons The New School for Design and working with Geoffrey Beene for five years. She’s received several prestigious design awards. Her most recent feather in the cap was dressing the first lady for a White House state dinner with President Lee Myung-bak of South Korea, with a vivid plum-colored, one-shouldered jersey gown, adapted from a runway look, and accented with a turquoise beaded belt.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia