PARIS — Reflecting the trend for high-quality outerwear and somber styles, which resonated through the recent men’s runway shows in Paris, boutique trade fairs here featured statement and salable pieces that hit the right notes with retailers.
Buyers who attended the events, which included Tranoï and Capsule that ran in tandem with men’s fashion week, said they were eager to refresh their stock. Although some said budgets were on par with last year, others increased their open-to-buy by as much as 20 percent.
Trends for fall underscored a quality-conscious take on casual outerwear, with heritage brands, revived archival pieces and knitwear emerging as a key message. Somber palettes and Gothic-inspired looks, à la Rick Owens, were also recurring themes.
Eric Toledano, owner of Canadian boutique U&I, lauded labels that put history front and center. “Either you are going to tell a story or you are not,” he said. “This year outerwear pieces are very strong. There are a lot of different interpretations.”
Toledano said he would increase his budget 20 percent. “We sell a mix of price points, that is what has helped us.”
“It’s a good quality show,” said Maely Amalric, buyer for Victoire, a men’s boutique in Saint-Tropez who was shopping the Tranoï show. “Knitwear is a definite trend this year — maybe more rustic knitwear. Outerwear, weekend wear, gentlemen’s vests, are all big.”
“I see a lot of Rick Owens-[inspired labels] here,” said Margot Meessen, buyer from Dutch boutique Labels. “It’s not casual, it’s very high fashion, but glamour is out.”
Affirming this trend, British outerwear specialist Nigel Cabourn, where signature pieces such as an original orange Everest jacket were on display, drew many visitors. “We’ve had people waiting here, it has been incredible,” said designer Nigel Cabourn.
Hot items at Nigel Cabourn came from the Classics collection, which are drawn from Cabourn’s archives and included jackets in solid and check tweed, as well as a tweed Macintosh. U.K. designer Neil Christopher confirmed the heightened interest among buyers: “People are writing; retailers are really positive.”
Meanwhile, Danish knitwear brand S.N.S. Herning, exhibiting at the Capsule show, said its signature knits such as the Naval Knit and designs resurrected from the brand’s archives were a hit with buyers.
“Updated classics are a strong trend for us this season. On the whole, heritage brands and rugged American styles did extremely well,” said Capsule founder, Edina Sultanik.
Sultanik said Capsule marked its biggest Parisian show to date with 85 exhibitors and more than 1,500 visitors.
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion
“I’m Russian and I love to use all these little tricks that I got from my grandma or my mom. We didn’t have a lot of money for creams or anything like that so we would use a garden as a beauty treatment regime. We’d put cucumber in the fridge and do a cucumber mask,” says model @irinashayk on one of her beauty hacks. WWD asked celebs what their go-to self-care rituals are. See what Naomie Harris, Freida Pinto and more said on WWD.com. #wwdeye #wwdbeauty (📷: @zefashioninsider)
Exclusive: @viktorandrolf are teaming up with @Zalando on a collection made from leftover clothing. The lineup, which lands at the retailer February 1, includes 17 pieces adorned with sliced up and repurposed overstock from the retailer’s private label collection. Pictured here is a look from the collection –– see more on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
@duewestnyc is the newest bar joining the collection of intimate neighborhood-focused spaces in the West Village. The cocktail menu, which includes bitters and syrups made in-house, offers a “Build Your Own Old-Fashioned” – like the one pictured here – where guests can choose from a list of spirits and unexpected sugars and bitters. #wwdeye
Spotted at last night’s National Board of Review gala in NYC: Angelina Jolie. Jolie – along with Meryl Streep, @lupitanyongo and more – continued the all-black dress code from Sunday’s Golden Globes. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)