Soaring business in the U.S. helped the Italian men’s wear industry weather a stagnant local economy and a slowdown in Asia in 2013, and executives are generally hopeful about prospects for 2014.
“The U.S. is the market that is showing the biggest growth, with constant double-digit gains in all categories,” said Versace chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris, noting that the brand’s iconic prints, leather products and shoes are hot selling items in the region. The Milan-based firm is also banking on the potential of Japan and Korea, where there is “strong” demand for Versace’s men’s wear, said Ferraris, adding that there are plans to open dedicated stores in these countries in 2014.
But Ferraris is especially optimistic about next year’s debut of Versace bespoke men’s designs. “We are strengthening our [tailored offering],” said Ferraris.
The brand’s men’s category accounts for 46 percent of total sales, which last year reached 408.7 million euros, or $523.1 million at average exchange, up 20 percent from 2011.
This trend toward more formal looks is exemplified by Brunello Cucinelli, which at Pitti Uomo will double the space of its booth to present its first collection of suits. The move follows Cucinelli’s acquisition of d’Avenza Fashion SpA for 3.5 million euros, or $4.7 million at current exchange. The Italian luxury firm also purchased the company’s property in Avenza, near Tuscany’s Carrara, where the business is headquartered and will continue to be based. The Carrara area specializes in men’s suits.
The men’s division accounts for 36 percent of Cucinelli’s sales, which last year hit 279 million euros, or $357.1 million at average exchange.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)