MILAN — In light of the recent financial turmoil in Europe, emerging countries can offer great opportunities to the Italian fashion and textile industry, according to Pitti president Gaetano Marzotto.
“Italian fashion companies must create a collaborative network to reach new markets,” he said here Wednesday, ahead of the 81st edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, scheduled for Jan. 10 to 13. “From this point of view, Pitti has to be considered an important platform to get in touch with international buyers, also from emerging countries.”
According to studies by Italian fashion and textile consortium SMI, the sector, which saw an increase in the first nine months of the year, suffered a significant slowdown in the third quarter, with growth dropping from 13.8 percent in the first half to 5.8 percent. Exports of textiles and apparel increased 12.3 percent in the first seven months of the year, reaching a combined 15.9 billion euros, or $23 billion at average exchange rate. Italy saw a 24.2 percent increase in exports to China and a 15.1 percent rise in shipments to Russia.
“Despite our worries, we are recording a very good performance in the U.S., with a 10 percent increase in exports,” said Marzotto, who also highlighted the positive results coming from Brazil, India, the Philippines, South Korea and Japan. More than 23,000 international buyers are expected to attend the next edition of Pitti Uomo, where about 1,000 brands will showcase their collections. Pitti is also set to expand its online services, launching a virtual temporary showroom where exhibitors receive orders from buyers.
The theme chosen for the fair is “It’s graphics now!” because “graphic design is faster than fashion when it comes to interpreting the present and transforming it into images and atmospheres,” said Pitti Immagine vice president Agostino Poletto. Fourteen international graphic designers, who have been asked to choose an iconic word and transform it into a logo, will show the results of their efforts in the Fortezza da Basso’s courtyard.
Pitti Uomo will also explore the new frontiers of craftsmanship at “Make,” a new area designed by Patricia Urquiola, which will host the handcrafted creations of 35 international designers, including Chapal, Zonkey Boot, Takizawa Shigeru, Samuel Gassmann, Le Yuccas and Marc Bernstein.
In addition, a project called “Italian Handscapes” aimed at celebrating Italian artisanal fashion, will be presented in January. For the debut, Pitti teamed up with Italian textile company Bonotto, which will showcase a selection of precious fabrics realized in collaboration with important fashion firms.
Pitti Uomo has also joined forces with Japan Fashion Week to bring 20 of the most interesting Japanese fashion brands to present their collections in Florence.
The list of new exhibitors at Pitti includes Alexander McQueen’s contemporary line McQ; Jimmy Choo, which is attending a trade show for the first time; Chevignon Heritage, the new collection designed by Milan Vukmirovic; Herno’s Herno Laminar, a capsule collection designed by Errolson Hugh in collaboration with Gore Tex; Italian tailoring label Tonello; Slowear’s high-end knitwear brand Zanone; Richard James’ Mayfair collection; the line designed by Nigel Cabourn for Eddie Bauer, and Andrea Incontri’s collection for Schneiders. Two special events will be held by Andrea Pompilio and Emiliano Rinaldi, winners of the last edition of the “Who’s On Next Uomo” competition.
Valentino will be the special guest this season. The first men’s runway show by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for the brand will be held on Jan. 11. There will also be a special project with Hardy Amies. The Savile Row tailoring company will present its fall collection during a special event, followed by a gala dinner.
Olympia Le-Tan will be the special guest at Pitti W. On Jan. 12. The French accessories designer will unveil a bag collection inspired by a number of Italian literature masterpieces. In addition, during the women’s ready-to-wear and accessories trade fair, on Jan. 10, accessories brand Gherardini will unveil its “La Pretiosa di Leonardo,” a bag taking inspiration from an original drawing made by the celebrated artist in the 15th century.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion