With clothing racks inspired by fish spines and stucco flowers blooming out of walls, Kenzo is out to apply the Antonio Marras touch to more of its sales points.
The fashion house, owned by luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, plans to refurbish 40 of its in-store shops this year, plus overhaul its Madeleine location in Paris this summer, transforming it into a second Paris flagship.
The units, representing about a quarter of Kenzo's global network, will reflect the decor of the Place de Victoires flagship, which creative director Marras overhauled last year in a style that is as playful as his multicultural fashions. Additional features include small mattresses in kimono prints for lounging or product displays.
Alberto Lavia, who joined Kenzo as chairman last September from Gruppo La Perla, said the decor changes came in tandem with an upscaling of Kenzo's ready-to-wear. The rtw has boosted sales of runway looks, which now account for about 30 percent of sales in some boutiques. He cited a double-digit pace for the brand last year.
The Madeleine unit, spanning some 6,000 square feet, is slated to close for renovations, including structural work, April 1, and reopen in early September with a new facade. The unit will carry the complete women's and men's collections and have a new area for children's wear.
Lavia also cited rapid growth in Kenzo's accessories, which have doubled in recent years, and particular success in footwear. In handbags, the firm relaunched such iconic styles as the Pagoda and Turnlock to boost the category.
Looking ahead, the company is eying brand extensions into watches and furniture, the latter category justified by its success in bedding, where it ranks as the number-two designer brand in Europe, according to James Greenfield, Kenzo's senior vice president in charge of women's ready-to-wear, licenses and communication.
The company is focused on its main markets, Europe, Asia and the Middle East, and plans to add four points of sale in China this year, bringing its complement to 11, Greenfield said. Kenzo closed its freestanding stores in North America and is focusing on wholesale distribution there at such retailers as Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Holt Renfrew and, for footwear only, Neiman Marcus.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
EXCLUSIVE: Sarah Rutson has been tapped to Build New American Fashion Group. The parent of Joie, Equipment and Current/Elliott hired the merchant to rev up its brands and expand its portfolio into designer, beauty and lifestyle categories. Read more on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion
Michael Kors' $1.3B Jimmy Choo deal has the company squaring off with Coach Inc. as both seek to build American powerhouses. Coach bought Stuart Weitzman in 2015 and Kate Spade just two weeks ago, but Michael Kors' acquisition may be putting pressure on its rival in the new push for scale. #wwdnews (📷: George Chinsee)
Meet actress Lucy Boynton, who plays opposite Naomi Watts in the recently released Netflix series "Gypsy." Boynton stopped by WWD to talk about her upcoming projects and her nomadic lifestyle. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)