PARIS — With global sourcing in flux and Europe’s sluggish economy weighing on trade, participants at the upcoming Texworld and Apparel Sourcing fairs are sure to focus on scouting for even better prices and new products to gain a competitive edge.
“Globally speaking, we’re not in a period of strong growth, everyone knows that,” said Michael Scherpe, president of Messe Frankfurt France, the organizer of the Texworld and Apparel Sourcing fairs held at Le Bourget here for four days starting Feb. 12. “Europe remains in a mood of stagnation, even recession, which of course weighs on the rest of the global economy. But despite everything, the economy exists. It has become more difficult, it is more competitive and errors are rapidly sanctioned.”
Scherpe said companies today need to be highly flexible, meaning they have to be able to target a market and then possibly six months later target another “because certain givens have changed too much.”
“There are opportunities in the global market, but they are more fluctuating,” he said.
To seize those opportunities and improve a company’s economic outlook, Scherpe said a powerful solution lay in “motivated” negotiating for lower prices, better conditions and searching for new products, all of which are best achieved through individual contact at venues such as trade shows.
“Especially during this crisis, we need people to come together to fix it,” he said. “They won’t do it alone and they will solve it if they meet — better prices can be found at a trade show. Those who are motivated will reap all the benefits.”
Those attending the Paris shows will have their pick of 625 weavers and manufacturers set to show their spring 2014 collections at Texworld and Apparel Sourcing. The 85 new weavers at Texworld will represent offers from South Korea, China, Egypt, India, Hong Kong, Thailand and Turkey. Apparel Sourcing will showcase 17 clothing manufacturers new to the show, including six from the European Mediterranean basin, and the number of their exhibitors is up by 15 percent. The Chinese New Year is expected to slightly decrease the number of weavers at Texworld.
On sourcing trends, show organizers said traditional sourcing centers remain crucial supply hubs, but buyers continue to redistribute their options to reduce risk and also better meet needs such as trend shifts, quality and reliability by turning to mills closer to home.
“Buyers in recent years try to diversify more, so as not to be dependent on a single source,” in case of political and economic turmoil or natural disaster in those places, said Scherpe. “There has been a balancing of sourcing, but at this point, the industrial fabric hasn’t changed a lot. We can’t do everything near home (in Europe and around the Mediterranean basin) because the industrial means is lacking — there aren’t enough factories. And reindustrialization doesn’t happen just by pushing a button.”
Closer to Europe, Turkey has benefited from sourcing redistribution and is now the country with the second-largest number of companies showing at Texworld.
New exhibitors to Apparel Sourcing, with a focus on manufacturing, come from Bangladesh, Egypt, India, Portugal and Tunisia.
“We are working closely with Messe Frankfurt’s offices in the main countries for sourcing and with organizations for export assistance, in addition to national associations so that new manufacturing companies are encouraged to come to Paris,” he said. “Last September, three Pakistani companies came to Paris, augmenting the ranges offered at the exhibition thanks to the support of CBI,” a Dutch organization that helps promote exports from developing countries to Europe, added Scherpe. CBI will also be present at the show with new exhibitors from the Mediterranean area.
Show organizers also said that due to tighter budgets, demand is up for more practical items, such as men’s shirting. As a result, Apparel Sourcing is expanding its range of shirting manufacturers from Turkey and Tunisia.
Texworld will be artistically organized around the theme of “desire” and new exhibitors include Balsoy Tekstil from Turkey, known for its innovation in woven and dyed cottons; Gemma Knits from Thailand, with technical fabrics for lounge, beachwear and lingerie; MJ Youna Co. from South Korea, with ultralight Lurex styles for day or eveningwear, and Turkey’s Antik Dantel, which will show its high-end and middle-range lace and stress its ability to produce large quantities quickly.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)