For Lord & Taylor, a regional chain with less buying clout than Macy’s Inc. or Target Corp., exclusives don’t come easy.
But now L&T merchants are working on a series of “capsule” collections with contemporary designers to try to level the playing field. “We don’t have a specific number of collaborations planned, but we believe it’s a new opportunity and will grow in the future both at Lord & Taylor and The Bay,” said Liz Rodbell, executive vice president of merchandising at Hudson’s Bay Company, which operates Lord & Taylor in the U.S. and The Bay department stores in Canada.
First up is a collection called Yoana by Yoana Baraschi, which will be sold only at 11 Lord & Taylor stores where there are contemporary departments, and not at The Bay.
“We have orders for spring and summer with a plan to work on fall and holiday,” said Baraschi, explaining that the plan is different from the one-off designer capsule collection strategy that’s been at Macy’s for the past year.
Baraschi said Yoana by Yoana Baraschi will be a 12-piece line that “crystallizes the playfulness and chic of my signature collection and makes it available to a broader customer base.” There are also five dresses that will be sold at all L&T doors. She cited ponte knit fabrics, slimming color-blocked dresses, whimsical prints, striped nautical blazers, and an overall tongue-in-cheek approach as characterizing her capsule line at Lord & Taylor. Everything is priced for less than $200. Sportswear items range from $150 for a printed pencil skirt to $190 for a striped double-knit blazer. Dresses range from $188 for a python-printed shirtdress to $198 for her signature double-knit dresses.
There will also be monthly replenishments. She said her signature collection is sold at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and 500 specialty stores around the world.
“Yoana has a sensible and playful design aesthetic that will appeal to our core contemporary collection clientele,” Rodbell added. Lord & Taylor is also expected to launch a capsule collection with Z-Spoke in April and is considering other options for down the road.
With Lord & Taylor’s performance improving and its marketing stepping up, designers have taken notice. Also, with recent consolidation and integrations at Lord & Taylor and The Bay extending across the operations and merchandising, there’s a chance that designers would receive larger orders than they would have in the past from just Lord & Taylor. Many of the same brands are carried at both divisions, and the overlap appears to be growing. For example, private label Lord & Taylor cashmere began selling at The Bay last fall. The Bay also sells the Black Brown 1826 men’s label, originally an L&T exclusive.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)