For Lord & Taylor, a regional chain with less buying clout than Macy’s Inc. or Target Corp., exclusives don’t come easy.
But now L&T merchants are working on a series of “capsule” collections with contemporary designers to try to level the playing field. “We don’t have a specific number of collaborations planned, but we believe it’s a new opportunity and will grow in the future both at Lord & Taylor and The Bay,” said Liz Rodbell, executive vice president of merchandising at Hudson’s Bay Company, which operates Lord & Taylor in the U.S. and The Bay department stores in Canada.
First up is a collection called Yoana by Yoana Baraschi, which will be sold only at 11 Lord & Taylor stores where there are contemporary departments, and not at The Bay.
“We have orders for spring and summer with a plan to work on fall and holiday,” said Baraschi, explaining that the plan is different from the one-off designer capsule collection strategy that’s been at Macy’s for the past year.
Baraschi said Yoana by Yoana Baraschi will be a 12-piece line that “crystallizes the playfulness and chic of my signature collection and makes it available to a broader customer base.” There are also five dresses that will be sold at all L&T doors. She cited ponte knit fabrics, slimming color-blocked dresses, whimsical prints, striped nautical blazers, and an overall tongue-in-cheek approach as characterizing her capsule line at Lord & Taylor. Everything is priced for less than $200. Sportswear items range from $150 for a printed pencil skirt to $190 for a striped double-knit blazer. Dresses range from $188 for a python-printed shirtdress to $198 for her signature double-knit dresses.
There will also be monthly replenishments. She said her signature collection is sold at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and 500 specialty stores around the world.
“Yoana has a sensible and playful design aesthetic that will appeal to our core contemporary collection clientele,” Rodbell added. Lord & Taylor is also expected to launch a capsule collection with Z-Spoke in April and is considering other options for down the road.
With Lord & Taylor’s performance improving and its marketing stepping up, designers have taken notice. Also, with recent consolidation and integrations at Lord & Taylor and The Bay extending across the operations and merchandising, there’s a chance that designers would receive larger orders than they would have in the past from just Lord & Taylor. Many of the same brands are carried at both divisions, and the overlap appears to be growing. For example, private label Lord & Taylor cashmere began selling at The Bay last fall. The Bay also sells the Black Brown 1826 men’s label, originally an L&T exclusive.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia