Today, Marc Jacobs is making a major statement about beauty: He’s opening his first store dedicated solely to the category.
Located at 385 Bleecker Street in Manhattan, the nearly 500-square-foot space showcases the designer’s 121-stockkeeping-unit color cosmetics collection — which also bows at Sephora’s 330 freestanding North American doors today — as well as his fragrances with Coty Prestige. RELATED STORY: Marc Jacobs Launching Beauty at Sephora >>
The space was once used by Jacobs as an accessories store, but Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs International and the designer’s longtime business partner, noted that Jacobs felt strongly about doing a makeup store because the category is one that Jacobs is “extremely passionate” about. It joins the designer’s Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Bookmarc and Little Marc stores on Bleecker. “Bleecker Street is my laboratory,” Duffy said with a smile; retail is his baby.
The space was designed by Jaklitsch/Gardner Architects. “I wanted [the store] to look like a jewel box, so the back is mirrored, ” said Duffy. Sephora’s custom-designed Marc Jacobs gondolas are fit into a vitrinelike space at the back of the store, with rounded glass pieces on either side lending an Art Deco air. Above the gondola is a mirror emblazoned with the Marc Jacobs Beauty logo.
Jaklitsch/Gardner Architects created the heavy black granite table, which is the store’s centerpiece and where makeup artists — who have all been trained at Sephora University, the retailer’s educational program — will work on clients. Hanging over that table is a custom black and white chandelier created by Kacper Dolatowski. “I wanted it to feel a little more fragile in here,” said Duffy. “I didn’t want it to be heavy, even though the table weighs 20 tons.”
Off to the left, Jacobs’ fragrances are presented on a wall display, with a Guy Lefevre-designed vintage table below with an assortment of makeup bags made of fabrics from Jacobs’ fall ready-to-wear collection. A large close-up of a model’s face fills another part of that wall, and Duffy noted that eventually more product displays could replace it. To the right of the makeup is a large vitrine with Marc Jacobs sunglasses. Two walls are windowed most of the way around, with abundant natural light pouring in. Duffy noted that the color collection and custom-designed fixtures will open in 11 additional Marc Jacobs locations today in Bal Harbour, Fla.; Boston; Chicago; Las Vegas; Los Angeles; New York; Provincetown, Mass.; San Francisco, and Savannah, Ga.
There are currently about 300 Marc Jacobs stores globally, and Duffy noted that the company is embarking on a major U.S. expansion plan in 2014. One of the first will be a “very large” Fifth Avenue flagship for Marc by Marc Jacobs, Duffy said, although he declined to give the exact address. Next will be a large Collection store on Madison Avenue. “We’ve never had a flagship store in New York City,” said Duffy. “I’ve always opened smaller stores, like on Mercer Street and Bleecker Street. Now, LVMH is determined to help us achieve this dream.” Leases are being negotiated in many cities but following New York, Duffy hints that Washington, D.C., Southern California, Dallas and Miami will be near the top of the list.
While Duffy and Sephora declined to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated that Jacobs’ color collection could do $15 million at retail from August through December and $20 million at retail in calendar year 2014. The makeup line is expected to launch in Europe in 2014 as well, said Duffy, with the Middle East and Asia to follow.
Could more Marc Jacobs Beauty stores pop up? Duffy doesn’t rule it out. “It depends on how it does,” he said candidly. “When we launched Bookmarc, I thought it would be the only one, and then we opened one in L.A. and in Paris and in London. And we’re about to open one in Tokyo. At practically every store I’ve underestimated the amount of people who will come.” He also hinted other licensed categories could one day come, including fine jewelry and furniture.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye