The men’s and women’s designer boutique expanded with a larger concept on the ground level of Lincoln Road’s high-profile 1111 Building, where it continues to operate its glass-box location on the fifth floor. Founders Roma and Erika Cohen closed their original store of the same name on the pedestrian mall’s east end.
“It’s more convenient to have both locations under one roof,” said Roma, who differentiates fashion offerings by reenvisioning upstairs as a versatile gallery limited to a few cult designers along the lines of Rick Owens Hun and a single handbag collection like Céline, with the occasional event and floor-to-ceiling ode to a seasonal trend. “There’s a synergy, yet they’re two separate worlds and experiences.”
Once again the couple commissioned Miami-based architect Rene Gonzalez, whose minimal interior is cheekily inspired by the Styrofoam coolers that day-trippers lug to the beach. There also are pebbled floors that mimic Miami pool decks and multicolored LED light sticks that glow from walls of white acoustic foam board. Paris Kain, better known as the designer of Abraxas Rex, filmed tropical videos that loop on a panel of flat screens. The whole effect morphs into a nightly art installation long after shop hours.
Zaha Hadid’s duo of combination benches and display tables in chartreuse lacquer stretch down the 2,500-square-foot space; one piece conceals a cooler of juices blended nearby at the hip Jugofresh bar and bottled with Alchemist’s ruby red logo.
“We’re exploring collaborations beyond traditional fashion,” said Roma of more examples, like a red lipstick shade developed with the Uslu Airlines cosmetics brand in Berlin, and products in the works from Joya and Dr. Brandt. “We’ll eventually release our own fragrance that blends Miami with the store’s avant-garde aesthetic,” he said.
Erika, a former beauty editor, buys the category based on exclusivity and personal affinity; currently she’s feeling RGB’s nail polish pens, the Eau d’Italie bath line created by a family member of Le Sirenuse hotel on the Amalfi Coast, and Kahina Giving Beauty’s eye serum made with Moroccan oil.
“Packaging’s key. It can’t be anything that looks like it belongs in a department store,” she said.
Across from beauty in front are stacks of random reading material, housewares and novelties. Roma curates its blink-and-it’s-gone selection of paperbacks from Richard Prince’s private collection, Andy Warhol memorabilia and a range of books from a signed copy of Patti Smith’s autobiography to a first edition of Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road.” Tourists also snap up Lomography cameras and eco toys from Japan.
“We knew going into lifestyle that it demands the high-volume traffic that only an address of this kind guarantees and the electric assortment to match. It can’t just be a pile of books and candles,” said Roma, reserving pricier art — Damien Hirst prints and Los Carpinteros’ suit cutouts — and objects (Flea’s custom bass guitars) for upstairs.
The lifestyle store’s layout furthers the sense of discovery. Lining both sides, zigzag shelves and racks display small items from the front and clothing from the back. Collections carried at the store include Givenchy, Thakoon, Alaïa, J Brand, Comme des Garçons and Alexander Wang.
“I describe the vibe as if the Harajuku spirit dropped down in Miami,” said Roma, of the floor’s mélange of ice cream colors and playful silhouettes mixed in with statement pieces like The Row’s hooded chubby in mink-lined black chinchilla.
Upstairs favors staples Rick Owens and Chrome Hearts, as well as newcomer Raf Simons for Dior. Saint Laurent receives a spot soon. Spring introduces Thom Browne and Maurizio Amadei’s MA+ in men’s wear, which is also carried exclusively upstairs.
Jewelry also leans toward designers with a core following. Having success with Lydia Courteille’s wearable art especially around Art Basel, they expanded with Istanbul-based Sevan Biçakçi’s intaglio pendants and cocktail rings of tulips and mosques embellished with ornate micro mosaics.
Roma estimated 70 percent of customers are tourists, of which a high majority hail from abroad.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)