MOSCOW — Jil Sander, known for its minimalist take on fashion, has opened its first store in this traffic-clogged mecca of new-wealth oligarchs and conspicuous consumption.
Located on the ground floor of the sprawling GUM department store on Red Square, the 1,900-square-foot store, which carries all of Sander's men's and women's lines, is located near MaxMara, Kenzo, Paul Smith, Pomellato and Louis Vuitton. Mikhail Kusnirovich, the president of Bosco di Ciliegi, which developed the Red Square side of GUM, operates the unit. Bosco's other brands include Givenchy, Kenzo, MaxMara, Moschino and Marina Rinaldi.
Though Russians are celebrated for their love of extravagant fashion, Kusnirovich said he believes Sander's arrival in Moscow coincides with a growing desire among sophisticated Muscovites for more subdued, intellectual looks.
"Definitely minimalism of the Nineties was rejected by Russians," he said. "It was like a mist of mineral water for someone who is dying of thirst.
"But now Russia is not behind the global trends," he continued. "And Jil Sander is not your ordinary minimalism. Raf Simons has combined clear shapes and exclusive fabrics. I am sure the brand will find devoted customers among women with high self-esteem, who are young professionals or involved in creative activity."
Meanwhile, he said another Sander shop would open at the end of the month in St. Petersburg.
Marc Duhm, worldwide wholesale director of Jil Sander, also voiced enthusiasm for the brand's prospects in Russia. "The customer here is ready," he said. "This August we opened our first-ever accessories corner in the world in Moscow's Vesna department store [which also belongs to Bosco]."
Russia, in particular Moscow, has been an El Dorado for many of Europe's leading luxury players, from Cartier and Boucheron to Prada and Hermès. Last May, Ralph Lauren opened twin stores in the city in partnership with Russia's Mercury distribution group.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast