This fall the City of Light is sparkling with accessories. Paris is abuzz with dramatic baubles, new boutiques and even some sneakers and slippers to wear around town.
Escada is hopping on the accessories express. The German fashion house has integrated production of its leather goods in-house and bolstered the rest of its accessories categories with a raft of licenses.
Marc Lelandais, Escada general manager for luxury goods and accessories, said the company is gunning to build accessories into a $384 million, or 300 million euro, business within the next four years from about $205 million, or 160 million euros, today. (Dollar figures have been converted at current exchange rates.)
Emblematic of its ambition is the launch this month of a new signature bag — Eluna. It is a sleek, half-moon shoulder purse that will ship 15,000 units in its first three months. “Eluna’s an important step for Escada,” said Lelandais. “It gives a clean style statement. We want leather goods to reach the 100 million euro mark within the next few years.”
Eluna will be promoted heavily. Its one million euro, or $1.3 million, launch campaign includes billboards in New York and Paris and on taxis in London. Steven Meisel shot the ads.
Eluna will be extended to luggage, scarves and belts for duty-free distribution in 2005. At the same time, Escada is plowing into duty-free for the first time with deals for locations at 12 airports.
Meanwhile, Escada launched last month at Paris’ Silmo trade event its new eyewear line in license with Italy’s De Rigo. Lelandais said Escada is aiming for 60 million euros, or $76.8 million, in eyewear sales within the next four years.
Escada has renewed for four years its silk license with Italy’s Ratti and has signed a jewelry license with Pluczenick Group of Antwerp, Belgium, which Lelandais said should grow into a 40 million euro, or $51.2 million, business within the next four years. — Robert Murphy
There are two designer collaborations afoot, each with a sporty edge.Jean Paul Gaultier has teamed up with French sportswear label Bensimon to create a line of tennis shoes to match his upcoming summer denim collection. Styles range from Asian-inspired high-tops and erotic Kama Sutra print designs to classic marine-striped shoes. Meanwhile, Rei Kawakubo has laced up with French ballet shoe manufacturer Repetto to make dance-inspired gold slippers for her Comme des Garçons line. — Emilie Marsh
Pop diva Jennifer Lopez may be from the block, but her bling hardly compares to the jewels going on the block that belonged to opera diva Maria Callas. Eleven pieces from the late soprano’s collection will be auctioned at Sotheby’s annual Magnificent Jewels sale on Nov. 17 in Geneva. One of the highlights will be an 11.7-carat marquise diamond ring; Sotheby’s expects it to fetch $180,000. Also on sale will be a gold Van Cleef & Arpels clutch and a stunning 37.56-carat claw-set emerald and diamond ring. Most of the pieces were gifts to Callas from her husband, Giovanni Battista Meneghini, in the Fifties. The diva bequeathed her collection to an anonymous friend after her death in 1977. The jewels will be displayed in various European cities this month. — Phoebe Elder
The French ready-to-wear and accessories label Antik Batik has opened a 538-square-foot store on Paris’ chic Rue Cambon, its second location in Paris. The walls are covered with fabric with Japanese-inspired prints, the century-old furniture comes from an Italian drugstore and a chandelier from the Fifties all echo the label’s quirky, ethnic style. An Antik Batik store in London is in the works for next summer. — E.M.
A year after reviving Roger Vivier and opening a palatial boutique in Paris, the Tod’s-owned shoe brand is going wholesale. Vivier will be sold at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Neiman Marcus in Los Angeles starting this spring. Ines de la Fressange, Vivier’s director and communications coordinator, said the pieces would range from practical day looks to exuberant evening ones. “We wanted to start with the United States,” she said. “It’s a good showcase for our elegance and extravagance.” Day shoes will retail from $400 to $700, while special evening shoes will cost as much as $4,000. She added Vivier had wholesale projects in the works for fall 2005 in Japan and Hong Kong. — R.M.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews