Have pop-up shops peaked?While the torrent of temporary stores shows no signs of abating — the format continues to be popular with a wide range of brands, from Gucci to Yankee Candle — there are signs of pop-up fatigue and doubts about the concept are seeping in after 20 years of proliferation.“The term pop-up has become so diluted, it’s almost irrelevant," said Mai Vu and Dimitri Koumbis, cofounders of Bishop Collective, a 2,700-square-foot temporary space in SoHo. "What’s important to us, is that we’re trying to create an experience. We took on a space with other brands and we’re trying to move away from a system where everything is a pop-up. Nothing has an edge anymore.”But Paco Underhill, founder of research and consulting firm Envirosell, believes the trend still has legs. "If sales were a 20th-century solution that got tired, pop-ups may be a 21st-century solution," he said. "Maybe there could be a designation in stores for seasonal displays. The pop-up could become a replacement for seasonal displays."
Long before the term pop-up shop became overused and abused — think sample sales with endless supplies of designer duds and vast Halloween emporiums — the platform was the domain of scrappy emerging brands lacking the funds for permanent digs, and burgeoning shopping-cum-entertainment experiences such as Ritual Expo in Los Angeles, a one-day mash-up of fashion, DJ culture, art and the web, that surfaced in 1998.
Like any form of real estate, pop-ups are subject to the laws of supply and demand. A glut of retail space as a result of 2017's retail bankruptcies and store closures, along with a dearth of new openings, has made some landlords more amenable to temporary concepts and spawned a cottage industry of technology-driven, short-term real estate aggregators."The reason we’re seeing more pop-ups is because that’s what the consumer is demanding," said Yashar Nejati, cofounder and chief executive officer of Thisopenspace, which connects entrepreneurs with short-term retail space. "They’re really shopping at these temporary stores. We grew 300 percent year-over-year in New York in 2017. I don’t see that slowing down."
The surprise of coming upon a retailer in an obscure location or finding a little-known brand occupying a prime piece of real estate has always been part of pop-up shops' appeal. Limited-edition collections and the evanescent nature of the format communicate a sense of urgency to consumers: buy now — or risk everything selling out.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)