PARIS — Printemps is sporting a new look this fall.
But this is no mere facelift for the 145-year-old store, despite several months of major renovation work entailing the closure of entire floors, the replacement of 13 escalators and the restoration of the Art Nouveau facade to its previous gilded glory. The recently completed renovation is part of an ambitious, wide-ranging overhaul to turn Printemps into an upscale shopping destination targeting fashion-conscious visitors from Paris and beyond.
“We felt we had the opportunity to go back to our roots and reestablish Printemps as a global, iconic department store like 145 years ago,” said Paolo de Cesare, the Italian-born chief executive officer who took the helm of the department store chain two years ago.
The arrival of the former Procter & Gamble executive followed the $1.33 billion sale of Printemps three years ago by French retail-to-luxury group PPR SA to a consortium including Borletti Group, which owns Italian department stores La Rinascente.
The new owners tasked de Cesare with a 280 million euro, or $408 million at constant exchange rates, turnaround of the business, starting with the flagship on Boulevard Haussmann.
“The store lost its focus in the Eighties and Nineties,” he said. “We wanted it to be different from traditional department stores, which are crowded, where things are difficult to find, where you feel you need to ask permission to shop.”
Luxury department stores such as Harrods in London, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Le Bon Marché here became the inspiration for the transformation of Printemps into an upmarket store focused on fashion, accessories and beauty.
As a result, some sections were downsized or closed altogether. The stationery department, along with the Zara and Mango corners, was eliminated, while the children’s wear, lingerie and homewares floors were reduced to make room for fashion and accessories.
“When I arrived, on the ground floor we were selling socks and hosiery, which positioned us in a certain way,” de Cesare said. “We are still selling them, but they are not critical to us anymore.”
The suggestion that such a radical change could alienate Printemps’ more traditional clients, who may not appreciate the closure of some shopping areas, doesn’t appear to concern de Cesare.
“It’s not going to be ‘everything for everyone,’ but it’s a destination for a certain type of shopping,” he said. “We don’t want to be elitist, but we are not a high-street retailer, either.”
The initial results of the refurbishment program are encouraging, with some brands already displaying “tremendous growth,” according to de Cesare. French fashion and accessories labels like Longchamp, Jerome Dreyfuss and Vanessa Bruno have shown double-digit growth for six consecutive months, while jewelry brands Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany have been growing in single digits, despite the ailing economy.
A central glass atrium rises through all of the store’s floors, offering a bird’s-eye view of the new black-and-white accessories zone in the basement, which also houses trendy gourmet cafe Cojean.
Conceived by U.S.-based designer Yabu Pushelberg, who has styled several W hotels and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, the new accessories area features 18 themed, open-plan “rooms” for customers to meander through. Eclectic artsy touches include wall sculptures, rugs, photos and design objects.
Citing “excellent” results on luxury accessories sales, Catherine Newey, Printemps’ director of accessories, said the new ground-floor luxury leather goods department aims to give more visibility and space to the store’s fashion brands’ accessories lines. A new boudoirlike environment in the basement targets shoppers looking for more affordable brands, a segment that is also buoyant for Printemps. Newey estimated accessories represent around a third of the store’s global sales.
Luxury leather goods have been moved down a level to Printemps’ ground floor, while fine jewelry and luxury watches are due to be housed on Printemps’ second floor. Independent fashion retailer Maria Luisa Poumaillou, who has opened her own shop on the second floor, will act as a consultant for women’s and men’s fashion brands.
Now that the finishing touches on the Boulevard Haussmann store are over, the next makeover stage will shift to the renovation of Printemps’ three other flagships in Lille, Lyon and Deauville in France, de Cesare said.
“We have 20 million visitors a year, which is more than Venice,” he added. “We need to keep up the interest and the excitement.”
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews