PARIS — Despite a challenging economic environment, organizers of the Première Vision textile trade show expect more mills to take part in this month’s edition, as they continue to bank on versatility and high quality to attract buyers.
Showcasing fabric trends for spring 2014, Première Vision is scheduled to run Feb. 12 to 14 at the Parc d’Expositions in Paris Nord, Villepinte. More than 1,700 exhibitors are expected to take part in the different trade shows under the Première Vision Pluriel banner — Expofil, Première Vision, Indigo, Modamont, Le Cuir à Paris and Zoom by Fatex. This represents a 12 percent increase versus the same period a year ago.
“Certainly, Première Vision is not immune to the economic environment, and it is difficult to predict now whether Europe’s ongoing economic difficulties will affect our attendance levels in the coming months, but we seem to have made the right choices in the past and I am tempted to say: So far, so good,” said Philippe Pasquet, chief executive officer of Première Vision SA.
The Première Vision trade show is expecting 734 exhibitors, up 8 percent from February 2012, including 23 new weavers.
Italy’s Eurojersey will be back with collections mainly targeted towards swimwear, while Japanese firms Morishita and Kanemasa will enrich the offer of high-quality jersey fabrics. Cotton shirting specialist Wagdy Moamen will become the first Egyptian mill to exhibit at the event.
Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision’s fashion director, said the season would be rich in rugged or spongy fabrics evoking mineral textures, or futuristic textiles with technical qualities and shiny or rubbery finishes.
“There is a shift in the place of nature in the creative process, from raw authenticity toward a greater link with technical know-how and innovation,” she said. “It’s all about man’s interpretation of nature, plants, ethnic and tribal motifs. Rather than mimicking reality, everything is being channeled.”
For the second season, there will be an area dedicated to creative flatbed knitwear. Knitwear Solutions, launched in September, is expecting 24 exhibitors, including eight newcomers, a turnover rate partly explained by the seasonal absence of some cashmere specialists. Among the new arrivals are Chinese knitter Alphatex Knitting Co., which specializes in ultrafine gauges for high-end clients in Europe and the U.S.; Spanish company Parrillu’s, which manufactures creative knitwear for major French and Italian fashion brands; Portuguese firm A. Ferreira & Filhos, a producer of large and fine gauges, primarily for major European brands, and Malhas Carjor SA, a specialist in knit articles for babies and children.
Première Vision is also bringing back the Maison d’Exceptions event, first held in September 2011, that will group 16 manufacturers that focus on products made using ancestral, folk or contemporary techniques.
Pasquet said companies can grow despite the ambient economic gloom, provided they entice consumers with clever, innovative products, in the same way that makers of smart phones and tablets have done in the consumer electronics market.
“There is little individual companies can do to change the overall level of consumer spending,” he said. “What is important for our sector is to give the consumer a good reason to arbiter slightly more in favor of fashion items than other types of consumer items.”
The executive said mills remain under pressure from buyers seeking to shorten delivery times.
“The current situation is not favorable toward increasing delivery times and risk-taking, but I would say that is the structure of the most sophisticated markets — to deal in very small quantities for a maximum of buyers,” he said.
Pasquet added that price, while important, will not always be the decisive factor for buyers, who also require flexibility, creativity and good service.
“Price is a consideration, but it is no longer the only one,” he said.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)