CHEVY CHASE, MD. — Ron Frasch has had his eye on Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship here ever since 1978 when Jimmy Carter was President.
“I loved coming in this building,” said Frasch, president and chief merchandising officer at Saks Inc., who was in town last month celebrate the store’s multi-million dollar renovation scheduled for completion this fall.
The visit found him flashing back 35 years to when he managed the then newly-built Prudential Center Saks in Boston. He would fly down to Washington, D.C., to visit a fellow Bonwit Teller alumnus, Larry Hill, who was racking up profits by turning around the Saks store here, which was built in 1964 on a zoning variance in tree-lined Chevy Chase.
“I loved the old architecture. I just thought it was elegant, a place where a sophisticated individual would want to shop because the people who worked here were sophisticated; the product was sophisticated; and it all fit into this glorious kind of building,” he said.
When Frasch rejoined Saks in 2004 after a 20-year hiatus working for Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Escada and Gruppo GFT, his return trip to the Chevy Chase Saks left him in a state of shock.
“I was really a little mortified,” he recalled. “To think back to the days when Larry Hill was running it, and see how they had merchandised the building with fixtures, case lines, branded walls. It didn’t flow. It was like 20 people came into the store with 20 different approaches.”
Over the last five years, Frasch has been working hard to position Saks as Washington’s top destination retailer. To succeed, he is counting on the branch’s two strongest assets — a growing stable of designers and a solid cadre of powerful female customers who secretly long to be beautiful and coddled.
“He just might make it,” said a former Bloomingdale’s executive who is now a top Democratic insider. “He has the loyal client base to make it happen.”
Flanked by a handful of Saks executives after a morning spent checking out the Tysons Corner, Va., store, Frasch dedicated two days earlier this spring to high-profile D.C. socializing to mark the store’s first major renovation in 13 years. Caterers and workmen buzzed through the Chevy Chase store parking lot putting the last minute touches on a silky white, 60 foot wide tent looming 23 feet in the air. A Diane Von Furstenberg trunk show followed by cocktails in the renovated lower level got the festivities started. The next day, a Jason Wu fashion show and sold-out luncheon showed how four decades in fashion and retailing can translate into solid Washington social clout.
Frasch’s commitment to servicing a quality D.C. client base is nothing new. He started forming relationships in the area in the Nineties when, as head of Escada USA, he answered a call from Estelle Gelman, the first woman president of the American Cancer Society, to help with her annual international designer fashion shows to raise money for cancer research. In 2009, when Gellman died of Alzheimer’s, her daughter Elise Lefkowitz reached out to Frasch to help organize an annual fashion show to raise money for Leonard Lauder’s Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation.
“I grew up meeting and knowing lots of designers,” said Lefkowitz. “When I was little my mother took me to shop at Elizabeth Arden when it was the only local store in D.C. to carry international designers. When Saks opened, we went there. And later we would go to Neiman Marcus.”
Lefkowitz’s idea was convince Neiman Marcus and Saks to accomplish what Democrats and Republicans had failed to achieve—to work together for a worthy cause. “It would be the first time the two chains had worked together,’’ said Lefkowitz who envisioned a national media campaign based on a new era of retail détente.
Neiman’s turned her down. Not because of Saks, she explained, but rather on the basis of their studies on behavior trends. “The marketing department in Texas said ladies were no longer interested in fashion shows,” said Lefkowitz. “They said women were not into lunch.”
Frasch, though, embraced the idea. Starting in 2010, Saks began work on something it called “the Great Ladies luncheon,” to be held at the Ritz Carlton Hotel and co-chaired by Leonard Lauder. The first event opened in 2011 with a Derek Lam show. In 2012, Carolina Herrera came to town.
This year, Saks went whole hog. “They called me to say they wanted to celebrate the renovation and hold the luncheon and show at the Chevy Chase store,” said Lefkowitz.
The luncheon was hosted by NBC’s Andrea Mitchell to honor public broadcast station WETA-TV president Sharon Percy Rockefeller, whose father, Illinois Sen. Charles Percy died of Alzheimer’s. The event sold out early with 400 guests and 60 on a waiting list to pay $300 a ticket or $3,000 a table.
“We’ve gotten lots of calls since asking if we will do the tent again,” said Kert Rosenkoetter, vice president and general manager of the Chevy Chase store.
Holding an old-school fashion show in the heart of the Capital’s post-modern retailing mecca speaks volumes about Saks’ commitment to the D.C. market. Located on the Maryland border of Wisconsin Avenue, Saks commands the northern flank of a row of glitzy boutiques including Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier, Dior, Piazza Sempione, Gucci, Ralph Lauren and Barneys Co-op. Two blocks away in Washington D.C., high-end retail chains include Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and Lord & Taylor.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast