Professional product makers are gearing up for what they hope will be a profitable 2010, especially after a less-than-stellar 2009, where manufacturers and salon owners were hit hard by the economy. Data from the Professional Beauty Association shows that for the first half of 2009 — the most recent results available — total sales were down 10.6 percent, based on shipments of products by the leading salon players, including L’Oréal and Procter & Gamble Co. Since the beauty industry often uses the salon sector as a barometer for economic recovery — i.e., when salon sales rise, a mend is on the horizon — perhaps some of the hottest professional items planned for 2010, featured below, may help get sales off the ground.
Bumble and bumble Wear and Care
Fashion’s go-to salon brand has created a new treatment line that addresses the effects most often incurred by the top styling services, such as hair color, perms and heat exposure. Bumble and bumble Wear and Care consists of eight items, all of which target damaged and dry hair and are classified into two groups addressing specific kinds of damage, Mending and Quenching. Each family consists of a shampoo, conditioner, a masque and a Complex, which when used together aim to provide benefits after one use. The Mending family is designed for “truly damaged, chemically treated hair,” strands that have taken a toll from coloring, chemical straightening or perming. Formulas, which contain pantethine, pro vitamin B-5, phytantriol and panthenyl ethyl ether, aim to penetrate the hair’s core to address shine, protection and strength, said Bumble president Peter Lichtenthal. The Quenching range addresses chronically dry hair, such as strands that undergo heat tools on a consistent basis. These formulas contain a “rich lipid blend” to moisturize hair. In each family, the Complex item should be used after cleansing and conditioning and is meant to be left in the hair, prior to styling. The items enter Bumble’s 2,500 partner salons, as well as retailers, in February. A fall education plan looks to rain the brand’s entire network. Items will sell for between $28 for the shampoo and $36 for the masque.
Revolution in Cut
Revolution in Cut is the hairstylist Ric Pipino’s take on how hair care should address one’s haircut. Along with beauty veteran Elizabeth Corrigan, who serves as president of RIC and president and chief operating officer of Global Beauty Group, the brand’s financial partner, the two have created a hair care and styling line to address six different hair cuts. There’s a shampoo and conditioner that start off the RIC experience and are formulated for all hair types and haircuts. The daily conditioner provides UV protection and contains keratin and protein to prevent breakage, while a deep conditioner, meant to be used once a week as a masque, uses amino acids to address dryness, Pipino said. Primers, which are meant to be used after cleansing and moisturizing, get cut-specific and address crop cuts, short layers, long layers, bob cuts, layered bobs and blunt cuts, styles Pipino believes “every woman can relate to.” Each is free of sulfates, parabens and gluten and use nanotechnology to help deposit vitamins and ingredients into the hair, such as grape seed oil, so a haircut is revived with each use. Fragrance is a big part of the overall RIC experience, Pipino said, and the different components within the line — the hair care, the primers and the styling products — are all part of the fragrance layering process, a first in hair care, Pipino added. Continental Aromatics helped create RIC’s orange blossom scent, one Pipino said “won’t conflict with your signature scent.” To style hair, Pipino created Lift Me, a light lifting spray; Smooth Me, for frizzy and curly strands; Curl Me, to add and define curl, and Toussle Me, for texture. The line features square containers and depicts sketches of women and their haircuts on packages, which were designed by Flood Creative of New York. RIC will be sold in 16 Beauty 360 stores by mid-February and is slated to have a presence at the Access Hollywood lounge during the Golden Globes, Pipino said. Prices will range from $18 for the shampoo to $32 for the deep conditioner.
Kérastase Age Premium
The luxury brand’s latest range, Age Premium, targets women 55 years and over to address their hormonal and biological changes. Shane Wolf, Kérastase vice president of L’Oréal’s Prestige Professional Brands unit, said three metabolic changes occur to hair when you reach a certain age: fragile hair, loss of density and dry scalp. Age Premium, he said, uses ingredients to address each change, such as vitamin F and ceramides to reinforce hair, a calcium derivative to prevent further hair degradation, and pomegranate extract and UV filters to protect hair from the sun. Most notable is the inclusion of Intra-Cylane in formulas, a proprietary Kérastase ingredient which took 10 years to develop, that creates texture by expanding the hair fiber to provide thicker feeling hair. Items in Age Premium include a shampoo, Bain Substantif, for $34; a mask, Masque Substantif, which uses hyaluronic acid to lubricate the scalp, a hair care first, Wolf said, for $60, and a supplement called Nutrients, which contain zinc, omega 3 and omega 6 and vitamins C and E to regulate the life cycle of hair, for $45. An in-salon treatment service for $35 is also on offer, one that Wolf said “immediately addresses hair’s fullness and texture.” The line is not to be confused with Age Recharge, a Kérastase range meant for women and men who want to fight the signs of aging hair. Age Premium, on the other hand, “embraces the fact metabolic changes are taking place,” said Wolf, and even uses 15 percent larger font on packaging.
Phyto Professional, Phyto’s salon exclusive range, has undergone a dramatic change to its packaging and formulations and even tapped hairstylist to the stars Andy Lecompte as a consultant on its newest incarnation. Hitting salon shelves this month is an eight-item styling line that includes a Glossing Cream, Texturizing Paste, Volumizing Spray and Strong Sculpting Gel, all of which contain acacia collagen, a botanical rich formula that contains oligosaccharides to hydrate and protect hair. Phyto Professional, which is sold in about 1,000 salons, will also be streamlining its distribution to focus on stronger partners, said Raphael Yousri, president of Ales Group USA. Items will sell for $24 to $36. The firm has also created L’espace Phyto, a dedicated retail area in salons where Phyto products will be on offer, complete with testers and educational materials for consumers. To date, there are five L’espace retail sections plus a Phyto HairSpa at Ted Gibson’s new salon in Washington, as well as at Loft 26 in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood. About 60 L’espace Phyto retail sections are planned by the end of the year, with a goal of 400 in the next three years.
T3 SinglePass Styling Iron
Among the 2010 launches for the leading professional tools maker is a revamp to an already popular styling iron to showcase T3’s latest technology. SinglePass straightening and flat iron will now use a vamped up version of its Digital SinglePass Instant Heating Technology, which helps maintain an iron’s temperature during styling. “Maintaining temperature is critical to successful results,” said Kent Yu, founder and inventor of T3. “As the category gets more sophisticated, people want more heat but also more control. The challenge is how to get to high temperatures so you still get benefits without the risk of overheating or underheating, which can lead to hair damage and [inferior] results,” he said. The SinglePass will sell for $160 at select salons nationwide, as well as in high-end department stores and beauty boutiques.
@deciem is all about transparency and approachability. At this year’s WWD Digital Beauty Forum, the brand's co-CEO @nicolakilner said talking to customers directly about the ingredients in products and how they work is key. #wwdsummits #wwdbeauty
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