Macy’s Inc. has enlisted Ruffian design duo Brian Wolk and Claude Morais to create two capsule collections for an upcoming men’s private label line called Threads & Heirs.
It’s a strategy inspired by Target’s Go International guest designer series and marks the first time Macy’s has called upon talent from the high-end women’s fashion arena to shape a private label men’s program.
Threads & Heirs will be produced by LF USA’s Oxford Collections, a subsidiary of Li & Fung Ltd.
Ruffian is on somewhat of a roll, having recently launched its Mise en Scene collection of apparel, hosiery and home products for Anthropologie under a two-year contract. The Macy’s line will be for spring and fall 2010. Wolk and Morais will create 20 or so items a season to give an edge to Threads & Heirs. For the spring 2011 Threads & Heirs collection, Macy’s is expected to tap another guest designer. The Ruffian label will appear along with the Threads & Heirs label on the items Wolk and Morais create.
Macy’s describes Threads & Heirs as a casual, modern and affordable men’s wear label driven by tops, sport jackets, sweaters, knits, wovens and a trim, clean fit. Prices will range from $24 for a T-shirt to $99 for a jacket. The collection will launch at 200 Macy’s stores across the country and on macys.com in March. It’s a major launch for Macy’s, of the magnitude of its recent exclusive Rachel Rachel Roy contemporary brand also launched in 200 doors.
In another twist, Macy’s will house Threads & Heirs on its main floor, adding some contemporary spice to what’s always been a sanctuary for traditional sportswear and key items, like polos.
Kevin Morrissey, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear at Macy’s, said Threads & Heirs represents an opportunity to give the 20- to 40-year-old customer a better fashion offering that’s versatile enough to wear from the office out to dinner. There will be new goods flowing in eight or nine times a season, providing newness for fashion customers and potentially more frequent turns, Morrissey said. “Brian and Claude are very strong in the women’s market. But they have a really good men’s aesthetic and will bring a little bit of a different flavor to the label.”
“Target has had great success taking higher and more advanced designers to the masses. All of us have been studying this [Target] and looking at what would be the right combinations,” said Durand Guion, Macy’s vice president and men’s fashion director.
Guion credited Cassandra Jones, Macy’s senior buyer of men’s sportswear, for encouraging the store to hook up with Oxford in a Target-like approach. He noted Jones was also instrumental in developing the Threads & Heirs color palette, patterns, fit and the items themselves.
For the Ruffian designers, Threads & Heirs represents a return to men’s wear after a five-and-a-half year absence when they started transforming women’s couture textiles into ties for Barneys New York. The team is very much inspired by Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where they live. “For the last 10 years, Williamsburg has been a hotbed of art culture. It’s very Americana, Fifties and Beat-inspired mixed with punk,” said Wolk. As far as Threads & Heirs, “There’s definitely a strong Americana beat with a Williamsburg aesthetic,” said Wolk. Further describing the capsule collection, he said it’s very layered and includes blazers, short-sleeve plaid button-downs, and knit-woven combinations such as a classic knit polo with a plaid collar. There are also striped dress shirts with white collars, four-pocket cotton jackets with band collars and linen shirts with pocket details and pleating.
“Threads & Heirs embraces a new modern attitude in men’s wear, focused on the grab-and-go guy,” added Jeff Gennette, Macy’s chief merchandising officer. “The debut capsule collection by internationally renowned designers sets the stage for a unique new perspective in contemporary men’s wear.”
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye