MILAN — Sergio Rossi is expanding in China and buying back its five boutiques in the region from its local franchisee partner, Shanghai Kutu Trading Co. Ltd.
“We’ve been in China for five years now, developed a sense of maturity and global vision and this step is part of leading the brand into the future,” said Christophe Mélard, president and chief executive officer of the luxury footwear firm.
The stores are located in Shanghai, Beijing, Ningbo and Shenzhen. Sergio Rossi is maintaining an existing franchisee agreement with Sichuan Lessin Department Store Co. Ltd. to further develop its business in second- and third-tier cities in China.
Mélard stressed that while the Italian company plans to double the number of stores in China in three years, it is not steering away from a highly selective distribution.
The executive said the brand is seeing double-digit growth in China, but he declined to provide financial details of the Shanghai Kutu transaction or on the performance in the region for the company, which is controlled by French retail-to-luxury group PPR.
Sergio Rossi has 42 directly operated stores worldwide and 36 franchised ones, and sells online in the U.S. There are 11 stores in Asia alone.
Mélard said he was “impressed” by how quickly Chinese customers shifted from being drawn by logos and brands to a more sophisticated level. “They are very aware of trends and are very mature,” he said. He noted that, with the help of creative director Francesco Russo, who joined the company two years ago, the firm has a more focused image. In addition to standing for sexiness, femininity and glamour, Mélard said Sergio Rossi “wants to be known as a luxurious Italian shoe specialist.”
“We are about comfort for women and timeless pieces. We pay respect to the silhouette of a woman, and we are capitalizing on our know-how at a factory level where our shoes require up to 160 manual steps of production,” he said.
Mélard underscored that the brand’s investment in buying back its stores “will help business, but also reinforce our message, that we pay attention to our customers’ needs by designing specific collections for Chinese fittings and made-to-order pieces. They like certain colors and materials.”
While focusing on the brand’s core footwear business and capitalizing on the success of its Cachet pump, Mélard said he is also keen to further develop the handbag division. In particular, he noted the success of the soft Viva bag, launched three seasons ago.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion